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Mark's Moderate: A Technical Trad Climb at The Bear, California

Calistoga, California USA
wide crack
chimney
runout
loose rock
helmets recommended
multi-pitch
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Mark's Moderate
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Mark's Moderate tackles a bold crack system on The Bear’s granite face, blending chimneying and overhung sections to test your trad skills. With two pitches of varied climbing and key protection challenges, this route offers a concrete dose of adventure just outside California’s Wine Country."

Mark's Moderate: A Technical Trad Climb at The Bear, California

Mark's Moderate commands your full attention from the moment you set eyes on the bold, wide crack slicing through the heart of The Bear. This two-pitch trad route demands more than raw strength; it invites methodical moves through chimney sections that ease you upward before narrowing into a slender, technical groove requiring precise hand and footwork. The climb starts confidently with easy chimneying, guiding you past four bolts that punctuate the route’s steady progression. As the crack tightens, deliberate placements become crucial, testing your mental and physical control as you transition slightly right to reach a three-bolt anchor, perched on a small ledge.

The second pitch escalates the challenge. From the belay, you launch straight upward, navigating a line protected by three bolts before contending with a bold overhung crack on an incredibly textured face. The holds offer enough variety to keep the moves interesting but demand respect; loose rock lurks nearby. Extra vigilance is required around a precarious side-pull block near the third bolt, reminding you that safety and awareness are paramount, especially with climbers below.

Protection on Mark's Moderate blends fixed gear with traditional placements: the first pitch carries four bolts and a piton leading to the belay, while the second pitch features five bolts with stretches where supplemental cams—specifically 1 or 2 inch sizes—can fill in runouts and bolster confidence. Helmets are an absolute must here, thanks to loose rock littering the upper ledge. The top anchors sit roughly twenty feet back from the ledge’s edge, emphasizing caution during both the ascent and descent.

Descend by traversing left through the crystal pockets area—a route that avoids the fall line and keeps you out of harm’s way—or opt for a rappel off Theodore Roosevelt’s summit, combined with a second rappel from the first pitch belay ledge. Both options require careful rope management and planning.

Approaching The Bear involves a moderate hike through mixed terrain, including forested sections and exposed granite slabs. The area’s elevation and exposure mean climbing can be best enjoyed in spring and fall when temperatures are balanced, avoiding the intense summer glare and winter's wet chill. This climb suits trad climbers ready to test their crack technique and mental sharpness on a line where both brain and brawn must work in unison.

Prepare your gear with an emphasis on small to medium cams, bring a helmet, and trust your footwork more than brute force. Mark's Moderate offers a direct line on well-featured rock backed by outstanding views of California’s Wine Country, making every move worth the calculated risk.

Climber Safety

Loose rock near the top belay and around the right side-pull near bolt three demands constant attention. Always wear a helmet, and avoid climbing with people directly beneath you. The ledges hold unstable debris, so anchor construction and belaying require extra caution.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Wear a helmet to protect against loose blocks, especially on the upper ledges.

Bring small to medium cams to fill in the less-protected sections on pitch two.

Descend via the crystal pockets area to avoid loose rock or rappel carefully using top anchors.

Climb in spring or fall for cooler temperatures and better rock conditions.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a R
Quality
Consensus:Mark's Moderate carries an R rating that amplifies the 5.10a grade with runout sections requiring tactical gear placements and confident movement. The protection feels sparse in areas, especially on the second pitch’s overhung crack, so the rating edges toward stiff. Climbers accustomed to well-protected sport routes should prepare for more commitment here, similar to other mid-grade trad climbs in the Bay Area but with a unique chimney-to-overhang transition.

Gear Requirements

Mark's Moderate features a combination of fixed bolts and traditional gear placements requiring a rack tuned for small to medium cams. Expect four bolts and a piton on the first pitch leading to a three-bolt belay. The second pitch, somewhat runout, is protected by five bolts but benefits from additional cams in the 1 to 2 inch range. Helmets are essential due to loose rock at the belay ledge and top anchors.

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Tags

wide crack
chimney
runout
loose rock
helmets recommended
multi-pitch