HomeClimbingMarilyn Merlot

Marilyn Merlot at Champagne Rock East Face

Lake Arrowhead, California United States
finger crack
single pitch
trad
face climbing
chain anchors
San Bernardino Mountains
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Marilyn Merlot
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Marilyn Merlot delivers a sharp, focused trad climb on Champagne Rock’s East Face, blending a nervy face start with a rewarding finger crack finish. This short but committed line is ideal for climbers seeking a solid crack challenge amid the rugged beauty of the San Bernardino Mountains."

Marilyn Merlot at Champagne Rock East Face

Marilyn Merlot offers a brief yet intense trad climb tucked into the rugged contours of Champagne Rock's East Face. This 50-foot route challenges you with an unprotected start: a seam of face holds that demands steady footwork and calm nerves before granting access to a welcoming finger-to-hand crack. The rock here feels raw and ready, with enough texture to test your balance and movement precision, setting the tone for the route’s core challenge. As you transition into the crack, the rhythm shifts—secure jams and locks become your allies, guiding you steadily upward toward shared chain anchors that mark the route’s conclusion.

The setting is a rugged playground amid the Upper Buttresses, offering more than just a climb. Surrounded by textured granite walls and the subtle chatter of wind along the ridges, the area feels alive, the rocks almost daring you to step in and match their resilience. The approach to Marilyn Merlot itself is straightforward but demands attention: an uneven trail weaves through open rock slabs and sparse chaparral, keeping you alert and engaged before you even clip in.

For climbers eyeing this route, gear up with a rack extending up to 2.5 inches, as the crack swallows varied protection sizes with ease. While the opening seam is exposed without pro, the route’s overall protection quality is respectable. The shared anchors with the nearby Corkscrew route offer a familiar fallback and facilitate safe top-rope setups or clean rappels on descent.

Given the route’s single pitch and moderate length, Marilyn Merlot fits well into a half-day climbing plan, whether as a warm-up to more demanding lines or a focused project for those honing crack techniques. The San Bernardino Mountains’ elevation brings dry air and sunshine, but watch for late afternoon shading and afternoon winds common to this part of California’s granite spine.

Timing your climb in the morning can lend both optimal grip and warmth, while the approach is manageable but requires sure footing, especially with loose gravel patches near the base. Hydration is key here, as shade is patchy and temperatures can climb quickly under the midday sun. Footwear that balances sensitivity and edging ability will give you an advantage on the initial face moves, while a selection of cams is essential for the finger crack that defines the route.

Marilyn Merlot isn’t about flash or length—it’s a precise, straightforward trad line demanding respect and confidence. It invites climbers into a focused engagement with each move and placement, rewarding competency with smooth flow and a satisfying send at the anchors above. For those seeking a route that balances adventure with clear, manageable challenges, this climb in the Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles area is a worthy pick.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution on the unprotected face section—fall potential increases without gear until the crack begins. The rock surface is solid but can feel exposed. Carefully assess anchor and pro placements, especially since protection up to 2.5 inches is required. Loose debris near the base can cause slips during approach.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon winds and heat on the exposed rock face.

Wear shoes with precise edging to manage the delicate face seam.

Hydrate well—shade is limited on the approach and climb.

Familiarize yourself with the shared anchors used by nearby routes.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a PG13
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a with a PG13 designation, Marilyn Merlot features a crux at the initial 15-foot seam where no protection can be placed, demanding composure and precise movement. The difficulty softens once you reach the finger crack, which allows good placements and a consistent rhythm. Compared to other San Bernardino classics, this route's grade feels fair but leans toward the sustained side given the unprotected start.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full rack up to 2.5 inches to handle the finger crack protection. The start offers no pro, so steady climbing is essential until the crack widens. Use the chain anchors shared with the Corkscrew route at the top for reliable belay or rappelling.

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Tags

finger crack
single pitch
trad
face climbing
chain anchors
San Bernardino Mountains