"Marge at Simpson Wall is a classic trad climb blending easy face moves with secure crack protection beyond the initial runout. A single pitch with solid stone and a top anchor perfect for a 70m rappel, this route offers accessible adventure just outside Welsford, New Brunswick."
Marge offers a straightforward trad climbing experience that combines gentle face moves with plenty of crack climbing, set against the rugged backdrop of Simpson Wall in Welsford, New Brunswick. From the outset, the climb presents a subtle challenge: the first 30 feet stretch across a runout section where protection is sparse, reminding climbers to stay calm and trust their movements on solid stone. While gear options are limited early on and unlikely to arrest a fall, the climbing remains firmly in the easy range, gradually easing tension for both body and mind.
Beyond this initial section, protection becomes reliably solid with placements up to 3 inches, providing a reassuring rhythm to the ascent. The rock quality here is notably sound, offering surprisingly confident holds and beautifully formed cracks that invite hand jams and laybacking with steady control. Although Marge is a single pitch spanning about 120 feet, the route demands attention to rope management: a 60-meter rope won’t suffice to reach the ground during your rappel. You'll need a 70-meter rope to descend safely, or prepare for some careful downclimbing if you come short.
Located within a well-regarded cluster of cliffs at Cochrane Lane, Simpson Wall offers a quiet climbing setting with sweeping views of the surrounding New Brunswick forest canopy. The approach is a quick stroll from the parking area, leaving plenty of energy for the climb itself. Weather plays a role here—smooth granite faces rarely dry quickly, so aim for a dry, warm day to maximize grip, especially in early spring or late fall when temperatures dip.
Gear-wise, a standard trad rack ending at 3 inches will cover all your protection needs, and the bolt anchor at the top ensures a safe, straightforward rappel. Because the rock feels so solid and the cruxes are mild, Marge is perfect for climbers building their confidence on gear-heavy routes or those looking for an accessible trad climb with modest technical demands. The straightforward rating of 5.6 PG13 reflects its balance of minimal physical challenge against the mental steadiness needed early on.
If you’re heading to Welsford, pack a reliable 70-meter rope, double-check your cams, and approach Marge ready for a fun, focused outing. With patience and care, this route rewards with smooth moves and a relaxed alpine feeling that’s easy to enjoy without fuss. Beyond the climb, the quiet forest atmosphere and fresh air leave a lasting impression—nature’s subtle invitation to return and explore more of the area's rugged character.
The first 30 feet feature runout sections with minimal protection—fall potential here is significant and gear placement is scarce. Ensure your rope is long enough (70m minimum) for a safe rappel to avoid hazardous downclimbing.
Bring a 70m rope—60m won’t reach the ground on rappel.
Focus on steady, careful moves through the runout initial 30 feet.
Approach early in the day to avoid damp rock; faces dry slowly.
Double-check cams for placement security between 1 and 3 inches.
Carry a standard trad rack including gear up to 3 inches. The climb starts with limited protection but improves quickly. A bolted anchor tops out the route. Use a 70-meter rope for a safe rappel descent.
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