"Maple Jam delivers an engaging two-pitch trad climb rooted in the classic crack systems of Yosemite’s Lower Brother. With technical jams, challenging roof sections, and a cautious approach, this route blends Yosemite’s climbing heritage with fresh beta to help you plan a confident ascent."
Maple Jam offers a compelling blend of technical crack climbing and thoughtful route-finding within Yosemite Valley’s iconic Camp 4 Area. The climb starts with a 5.8 layback pitch that skirts the left side of a modest tower, featuring a wide crack that invites big cams, particularly a trusty #4 Camalot. This section demands focus, as the pro can be sparse—climbers are advised to carry their largest cams to confidently link placements and minimize runouts. A less direct option veers right through brush and a dirtier crack, easing the physical challenge but sacrificing both aesthetics and security.
The upper pitch delivers Maple Jam’s real challenge and charm: sustained jamming that edges into the 5.10a realm. Climbers must grapple with the transitions around a distinctive roof, pulling through solid hands that sharpen into finger jams. This crux section rewards those who trust their technique and gear placements, moving into a stemmed rest before tackling a final 5.9 crux through a vertical 3-inch crack. Beyond here, the climb opens up with easier face holds, steering slightly left to avoid loose rock and debris before arriving at a modern bolted belay.
Historically, the second pitch was fraught with uncertainty due to a dead tree used for belays and awkward climbing through loose, vegetated terrain. Recent cleaning efforts have removed this hazard, making the extended pitch more enjoyable and safer, though still demanding a secure rack and careful footwork.
Maple Jam’s 150-foot span unfolds across two pitches of concentrated effort, combining classic Yosemite crack climbing with pragmatic route choices that reward preparation and patience. The Lower Brother area situates climbers in a quieter pocket of Yosemite, providing expansive views of the valley’s rugged north side. Approaching from Camp 4, the trail navigates forested slopes dotted with pine and manzanita, engaging senses with the crisp scent of conifers and the occasional call of distant ravens.
For those eyeing the ascent, carry doubles up to 2 inches and singles up to 4 inches, with big cams recommended for the first pitch’s wider cracks. Given the route’s occasional loose sections and past instability, a solid rack is essential, alongside a helmet for protection from falling debris. The best time to climb is spring through early fall, when stable weather delivers dry rock and moderate temperatures. Late summer afternoons can warm the wall, making early morning starts preferable.
After topping out, climbers can either rappel left from two reliable bolts or descend via a walk-off that skirts loose blocks, requiring attentive footing. This descent keeps the adventure grounded in the practical demands of Yosemite climbing—respecting both the rock’s quality and the approach’s terrain.
Maple Jam is for the trad climber who values authentic crack climbing blended with route complexity and a brush with Yosemite’s evolving wilderness. It’s a climb that invites reflection on the rock and the strategy, rewarding steady hands and clear heads alike.
Past loose rock and debris require helmets and caution near the roof and upper dihedral. The approach to the belay area has been cleaned but still demands careful foot placements. Always check for unstable vegetation or rocks before trusting holds.
Link the two pitches if comfortable to avoid difficult belay rigging and to maintain flow.
Start early to take advantage of cooler morning rock and avoid afternoon heat on the upper crack.
Bring a helmet due to occasional loose rock in the dihedral and near the roof section.
Consider a rack heavy on cams 2-4 inches to cover both the wide crack and roof placements.
Doubles to 2", singles to 4", plus optional larger cams for the first pitch. Recent cleaning has improved the second pitch dramatically, but solid pro remains essential throughout.
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