"Maple Bacon offers a focused, technical sport climb on smooth limestone in Cougar Canyon. Expect a sharp, sustained sequence that rewards precise footwork and powerful moves, ideal for climbers aiming to sharpen their 5.10c skills in a quiet Bow Valley setting."
Maple Bacon stands as a compact yet demanding sport route carved into the rugged limestone walls of Cougar Canyon, just outside the bustling heart of Bow Valley in Alberta. This single-pitch climb offers an intense burst of technical climbing that rewards focus and precise footwork. The climb begins with delicate, thin holds pressed against rounded rock features that test finger strength and balance. A challenging crux demands a dynamic move to the right, reaching for a generous hold before powering towards the top anchors.
The climb’s fifteen meters, protected by six well-spaced bolts, invites climbers to engage fully with the rock’s subtle contours. The limestone surface is solid, though often smooth, requiring meticulous placement and careful weight distribution to maintain control. Although short, Maple Bacon delivers a sustained sequence that doesn’t allow room for rest, making it ideal for climbers honing their sport technique at the 5.10c level.
Cougar Canyon itself provides a quiet retreat with a moderately approached, under-five-minute access from the main trail. The route’s aspect benefits from morning sun and afternoon shade, allowing climbers to time their ascent for optimal comfort during warmer months. While the area is still undergoing some construction, the natural features and clear bolt line make Maple Bacon a reliable choice for a focused training session or a quick taste of Bow Valley’s limestone character.
Preparation here centers on precise movement and confident clipping, given the bolts' spacing and the route’s technical demands. Climbers should bring a 60-meter rope for ease of rappel and ensure quick draws are on hand for swift clipping. Sturdy climbing shoes with good edge sensitivity are recommended to handle the rock’s slight slickness. Hydration is important, especially in the warmer season, as this often shaded canyon can cause subtle sweat buildup without noticeable breeze.
Maple Bacon's presence enriches the local sport climbing scene, offering a focused challenge in a setting that balances accessibility with the quiet energy of the outdoors. Whether sharpening your skills or ticking a steady, well-protected route, this climb delivers a tight, memorable experience shaped by the precise dance between hold and effort. The surrounding Bow Valley area invites further exploration, with nearby routes and trails to extend your outdoor adventure.
While the six bolts and anchors are well maintained, the route’s length and single pitch mean quick, confident clipping is crucial. Watch footing on the rounded limestone as some holds can feel slick; conditions change with moisture, especially when shaded.
Approach trail is short but watch for construction zones near the access.
Best climbed in the morning for sun warming the wall; afternoon provides shade.
Wear shoes with good edging for the often slick limestone holds.
Hydrate well—this shaded canyon traps humidity even in mild weather.
Six bolts provide solid protection with anchors atop. Bring a 60m rope and quickdraws for smooth clipping and rappelling.
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