"Man of War stands out at Stave Lake as a compelling trad and boulder hybrid, offering a dynamic traverse past a distinct diamond pocket with deep water below to catch any slips. It’s a concise yet thrilling climb, perfect for trad enthusiasts looking to blend technique with a splash of adventure."
Man of War at Stave Lake offers an invigorating blend of traditional climbing and bouldering set against the raw beauty of British Columbia’s Fraser Valley. This single-pitch, 60-foot route begins on a sturdy ledge beside a striking diamond-shaped pocket etched into the cliff’s face. From here, climbers embark on a traversing dance to the right, edging past this defining feature while navigating an initial crux at the corner just before the pocket. The water below is a constant, quiet guardian—deep and welcoming enough to act as a natural spotter, easing the mental load as you push through technical moves. Connecting directly into the adjoining Cannonball climb expands the experience, transforming it from a quick challenge into an unforgettable outing. As you climb, the cool spray and gentle sound of the water provide a refreshing backdrop, while the exposed rock offers clean lines and solid holds. The route demands precise footwork and confidence on small edges, making it a rewarding test for climbers eager to sharpen their trad skills with the thrill of bouldering moves close to the earth. Access is straightforward, with the lake’s edge providing both a scenic starting point and a relaxing finish. Whether you arrive for a quick session or to link climbs along this rugged lakeshore, Man of War rewards with solid protection, an accessible approach, and a crisp, engaging line that captures the gritty character of Stave Lake’s climbing scene.
Although the water below adds security, conditions can vary with weather and water level. Always verify the depth before relying on the water as a spotter and avoid slippery rock near the lake’s edge. The corner crux features some sharp edges, so watch your hand placements.
Start early to avoid afternoon glare on the face.
Wear waterproof shoes or bring swimwear for an easy water exit.
Scout the approach path at low tide for the most accessible footing.
Bring a quickdraw or two for intermediate protection spots.
Expect to bring a standard trad rack with mids to small cams for tricky placements, alongside crash pads if you plan to boulder around the base. The water acts as an additional safety net, but don’t rely on it exclusively. Comfortable shoes with sticky rubber optimize grip on this mix of edges and slots.
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