Magnet: An Accessible Traditional Climb in Squamish’s Murrin Park

Squamish, Canada
beginner-friendly
crack climbing
single pitch
well protected
traditional gear
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Magnet
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Magnet is a hands-on introduction to traditional climbing in Squamish’s Murrin Park, featuring a steady 70-foot ascent along clean cracks. Ideal for climbers refining placements or new to trad, it balances accessible moves with opportunities to practice gear in a scenic, well-protected setting."

Magnet: An Accessible Traditional Climb in Squamish’s Murrin Park

Magnet offers climbers a steady introduction to traditional climbing amid the raw beauty of Squamish’s famed Murrin Park. The 70-foot single pitch ascends a clean, faulted rock face, guiding you upward along a series of welcoming cracks that invite thoughtful gear placements rather than sheer athleticism. This route holds a quiet charm, with a few moderate moves demanding attention in the middle section — a perfect spot to refine footwork or practice cautious hand jams. The rock feels solid beneath your fingertips, its grey surface cool under the morning sun and warming gently as the day progresses. Trees border the approach trail, their needles whispering in the breeze while distant views of Howe Sound stretch beyond the crag, pushing your senses toward the next move.

Though technically straightforward at 5.4, Magnet is far from trivial. The climbing encourages you to read the rock carefully, positioning protection precisely to build confidence and develop instincts vital for longer, more complex climbs. Two fixed bolts crown the top, securing a reliable anchor for an easy descent or lowering. Gear requirements remain simple yet deliberate: a range of nuts and a set of small to mid-sized Camalots (.5 to 2) provide ample coverage on the variable crack widths. This balance makes Magnet an ideal practice ground for trad climbers eager to sharpen their skills without the overhangs or strenuous cruxes of nearby routes.

Access follows a short, easily navigable trail from Murrin Park’s parking area, weaving through lush firs and patches of mossy ground before opening onto the base of the wall. The trail is well-marked and suitable for all skill levels, making it a popular warm-up or cool-down climb after a day on more challenging walls. Morning or late afternoon sessions are preferred, as the route faces southeast and basks in gentle sunlight while avoiding the intense heat that can accumulate in the summer months.

Safety is straightforward here, with solid rock quality and secure anchors, but climbers should remain aware of loose debris near the base and the occasional slippery moss in shaded sections after rain. The simple approach, coupled with manageable pitch length and a forgiving grade, ensures comfort for novices and a relaxing challenge for seasoned trad enthusiasts seeking a low-key outing.

In all, Magnet blends a measured adventure with precise technical practice. Its single pitch delivers a satisfying climb that rewards methodical movement and gear confidence. For anyone wanting a taste of Squamish’s legendary trad scene in a contained, approachable setting, this route is an excellent first step toward more ambitious climbs towering above the fjords.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the base and slippery moss patches after wet weather. The two fixed bolts at the top provide a reliable anchor, but careful gear placements along the way are key to ensuring security on the climb.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Approach is short and well-marked; allow 15 minutes from the parking lot.

Best climbed in morning or late afternoon to avoid strong midday sun on the southeast-facing wall.

Keep an eye out for mossy spots after rain which may reduce traction near the base.

Always double-check placements and clip before committing to larger moves in the middle section.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.4
Quality
Consensus:Though Magnet is rated a moderate 5.4, the sustained slab climbing and mid-route stepping moves create enough engagement to hold interest beyond a simple beginner task. The grade feels fair without being soft — expect to engage your balance and footwork rather than brute strength. Compared to other Squamish trad routes, it’s a gentle introduction without unexpected challenges.

Gear Requirements

Carry a full set of nuts alongside Camalot C4s from .5 to 2 for the best protection coverage. The cracks vary but remain straightforward, allowing for secure placements. Top anchors are fixed bolts for safe lowering or rappelling.

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Tags

beginner-friendly
crack climbing
single pitch
well protected
traditional gear