"Made in the Shade offers a smooth and shaded 110-foot sport climb in Alberta’s Cougar Canyon. Its moderate 5.10c moves flow across well-protected terrain, making it a top pick for climbers seeking a challenge with a cool backdrop and a quiet creek nearby."
Made in the Shade offers a compelling entry point for climbers aiming to explore the left side of Cougar Canyon’s Bow Valley sector. This 110-foot, single-pitch sport route presents a moderately challenging rhythm of moves rated at 5.10c, demanding a blend of technical prowess and steady composure. As you step onto the route, the rock feels solid under your fingers, the edges crisp enough to reward precise footwork without feeling punishing. The climb begins with a smooth, slightly angled wall that warms you up before nudging into a steeper section where sequences start to test your ability to flow efficiently through the holds.
The climb lives up to its name by offering a shaded approach, thanks to the canyon’s natural contour and nearby rock formations that block the harshest sun rays during midday. This shelter from direct sunlight keeps the rock cool, enhancing friction and making it an inviting retreat on warmer days. The surroundings vibrate with the gentle murmur of the nearby creek – an ever-present companion that seems to challenge you silently, its cool breath blending with the fresh Bow Valley air.
Made in the Shade is often appreciated as an alternative to the direct start of the nearby Shady Lady route, providing a slightly different puzzle for climbers who want to stretch their skills in a comfortable setting. It also connects to the beginning of the Gloaming route, which travels further right from a corner start, opening options for extending the adventure after sending this classic pitch.
Protection on this route relies on 11 fixed bolts spaced to offer consistent safety without overcrowding the line. The placement encourages climbers to trust their clipping, promoting a steady climbing tempo that tests endurance as much as technique. While the bolts make it approachable, the route still preserves a natural feel that engages your judgment on movement and positioning.
When preparing for Made in the Shade, climbers should pack gear for sport climbing — quickdraws, a helmet, and shoes suited for friction-dependent faces. Water and light snacks are recommended to maintain energy, as the approach trail through Cougar Canyon is moderate in difficulty but rugged enough to demand attention. Starting early in the morning or later in the afternoon can maximize climbing comfort, as the shaded nature of the wall helps avoid the heat trap common to open walls in Bow Valley.
Overall, this climb is a balanced opportunity for climbers aiming to push into the 5.10c range within a contained and well-protected environment. It invites a connection with the quiet pulse of the canyon creek and the alpine atmosphere that defines this part of Alberta’s climbing landscape. Whether as a warm-up or a primary objective, Made in the Shade promises a clean, direct line with enough challenge to satisfy adventurous spirits without overwhelming newcomers stepping into the grade.
Care is advised during the approach as the Cougar Canyon trail can be uneven and slippery when wet. On the route itself, while the bolts are plentiful, vigilance is required for precise clipping to avoid unnecessary slips or awkward swings on lead.
Approach via Cougar Canyon trail—expect rugged footing and plan for about 30 minutes.
Start early or late to avoid the midday heat despite the climb’s shaded aspect.
Bring enough water and wear shoes optimized for smearing and edging on solid limestone.
Trust the bolt spacing but maintain focused clipping to keep momentum smooth.
This sport climb is equipped with 11 fixed bolts, spaced for safe and continuous protection. Quickdraws and standard sport climbing gear are sufficient.
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