HomeClimbingMad Dogs and Edgingmen

Mad Dogs and Edgingmen at Suicide Rock

Idyllwild, California USA
arete
single-pitch
bolt-protected crux
granite
technical footwork
trad
california
moderate
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Mad Dogs and Edgingmen
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Mad Dogs and Edgingmen delivers a focused 90-foot trad experience on a rounded arete at Suicide Rock. With precise footwork demanded and a concise but effective bolt sequence guarding its crux, this route is ideal for climbers seeking a technical test in classic California granite."

Mad Dogs and Edgingmen at Suicide Rock

Mad Dogs and Edgingmen stakes its claim on the rugged face right of the Escalator, a classic feature at Suicide Rock that tests both technique and nerve on a single, compelling pitch. This route rolls out over a smooth, rounded arete that demands precise footwork and confident movement. Starting about 15 to 20 feet above the base of the Escalator, the climb quickly transitions from straightforward scrambling into technical terrain, highlighted by a bolt-protected sequence of moves graded at 5.9. Beyond that, the route challenges climbers with a distinctive crux secured by another bolt, ensuring protection but requiring sharp focus.

At 90 feet in length, this is a brief but concentrated taste of the climbing that defines this legendary California area. The rock surface here has a worn, weathered texture that offers secure holds, yet its rounded profile rewards those who engage balance and subtle edging more than brute strength. The climb’s moderate difficulty and limited protection—two bolts along with gear for the belay—call for solid trad skills without overwhelming complexity.

Situated within the well-frequented cluster of Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks, Mad Dogs and Edgingmen is a perfect choice for climbers comfortable with single-pitch trad routes seeking a quick, technical warm-up or a targeted challenge when time is tight. The approach is straightforward, with established access trails guiding you through a stark landscape where massive granite walls rise sharply under sunny skies.

Given the route’s exposed nature and minimal fixed hardware, climbers are advised to rely on their own rack and ensure placements feel secure. The area’s dry climate means holds stay generally friction-friendly, but be prepared for direct sun on the rock, particularly in midday hours. Planning your climb for early morning or late afternoon will yield cooler conditions and longer shade, protecting your hands and feet from grinding heat.

While the overall climbing is described as average in character, Mad Dogs and Edgingmen offers steady engagement with the rock, fitting well into a day of climbing at Suicide Rock. With thirteen recorded votes averaging a modest rating, it’s a climb that serves well as a reliable test of fundamentals and a chance to absorb the raw granite atmosphere that makes this destination a staple in California climbing circles.

Climbers should treat this pitch with respect, especially considering the need for precise gear placement and the limited number of bolts. Approach the route with a mindset focused on deliberate movement and careful assessment of every hold. Overall, this line is a measured but worthwhile encounter: straightforward in length, solid in exposure, and with just enough complexity to satisfy those who appreciate balance and technique over sheer difficulty.

Climber Safety

Given the route’s limited fixed anchors—just two bolts—climbers must rely heavily on solid gear placements and a cautious approach to risk. The rock is clean but rounded, and the exposure on the arete means falls could be serious; double-check protection and avoid climbing when wet or after rain.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Approach Suicide Rock via well-marked trails from Idyllwild, expect around 30 minutes to the base.

Early morning climbs offer cooler rock temperatures and longer shade on the face.

Bring shoes with sticky rubber for secure edging on the smooth granite surface.

Inspect gear placements thoroughly as protection beyond bolts can be sporadic.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.10a, Mad Dogs and Edgingmen presents a moderate challenge with a small crux protected by bolts that reflects the grade faithfully. The route isn't considered soft; rather, its difficulty is consistent throughout, pushing climbers to maintain control and precision. Compared to neighboring routes in the Suicide Rock area, this line strikes a balance between straightforward moves and engaging sequences without unexpected spikes in difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack along with equipment for belay anchors; two bolts protect key moves but placements for additional gear require careful judgment.

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Tags

arete
single-pitch
bolt-protected crux
granite
technical footwork
trad
california
moderate