"Lycanthropy challenges climbers with its powerful roof sequences and technical crack climbing on Squamish’s Gobsmacking Wall. This two-pitch trad route demands precise technique and solid gear placement for a rewarding ascent near Shannon Falls."
Lycanthropy offers climbers a distinct and thrilling experience on Squamish’s Gobsmacking Wall, a route that demands both technique and commitment. The climb shares its opening with the adjacent Hungry Wolf route, ascending an inviting dihedral that invites you to engage your body in stemming moves. As you gain height, you encounter the first imposing roof—a test of balance and focus where you lean out to clip a single, well-placed bolt. This section is where the climb earns its name: prepare for powerful smears, laybacks, and intricate hand jams, accented by knee bars and pinches that challenge your ability to read the rock and manage your energy.
Beyond this roof, the route extends through a sequence of overhanging terrain peppered with a few more bolts that ensure confident protection while you battle the physical demands. The final segment opens into excellent crack climbing, with deep, secure holds that reward careful finger and hand placements. This crack allows you to stretch upward with relative ease, pulling past the roof’s shadow and into a sense of triumph as you crest the wall.
For descent, climbers have two solid options: a double rappel with a 60-meter rope from the fixed anchors directly back to the ground, or, for those wanting to explore more, a scramble to the top of the wall followed by a short walk south to retrieve gear. The route’s protection is straightforward—three bolts combined with a traditional rack ranging from small to medium cams (.4 to 2 inches), with an optional extra .75 cam providing peace of mind for tricky placements.
Gobsmacking Wall resides near Shannon Falls, just minutes from Squamish’s bustling center. The approach is direct, setting you quickly into the climbing zone with views of towering granite faces and lush forest surroundings. This area is known for its clean rock and stable conditions, making Lycanthropy a reliable challenge that delivers both mental and physical engagement without wandering into the wilderness too far.
Whether you are stepping up to 5.11d sport climbs for the first time or looking to sharpen your trad skills, Lycanthropy rewards focused effort with dynamic moves and a satisfying sequence of pitches. Respect the technical cruxes and keep gear well placed as the roof sections can test your strength and confidence. Ideal cooler weather or early morning starts ensure better friction and comfortable climbing temps in this coastal British Columbia spot.
Experience this compelling route with preparation and enthusiasm, and the Gobsmacking Wall’s Lycanthropy promises a memorable adventure in one of Canada’s iconic climbing hubs.
The route includes some ledges under roofs where loose rock can collect; check placements carefully and be mindful of rockfall. The rappel anchors are fixed but always inspect before use, as coastal weather can affect bolt integrity. Access the climbs only when dry to avoid slippery holds and increased hazard.
Start early to avoid the afternoon sun and keep the rock cool for better friction.
Bring a rack emphasizing small to mid-sized cams to cover tricky gear placements.
Double-check anchors before rappelling, especially after wet weather.
Prepare for physical roof sections with training focused on stemming and layback techniques.
The route features three bolts and requires a single rack with cams from .4 to 2 inches, plus an optional .75 for additional security. A 60-meter rope is sufficient for two rappels.
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