"Lust offers a focused 85-foot trad climb in The Smoke Bluffs that pushes a sustained 5.10+ crux above the fourth bolt. With solid rock and options for line choice, it’s a route that rewards precise gear placement and bold moves under warm afternoon sun."
Lust, located in Boulder Gully within The Smoke Bluffs of Squamish, BC, offers a single-pitch trad climb that challenges your climbing instincts on solid yet rugged rock. The route stretches 85 feet and stakes its claim as a 5.10+ adventure where every move demands precision and focus. Approaching the climb, the rocky face greets you with a mixture of chunky holds and sharp seams that require deliberate hand and foot placements. The crux sits just beyond the fourth bolt, where the terrain steepens into a demanding section of thin cracks, pods, and seams best tackled either by edging left into steeper cracks or veering right around a slab. Both lines maintain a consistent difficulty rating around 5.10, but the right-side option rewards climbers with better protection and warmer sunlight, making those moves feel a little less remote.
The rock here is solid, with dependable protection placements that balance traditional nuts and small cams with a handful of pre-placed bolts. Atop the route, sturdy chains and a two-bolt anchor await, providing a safe and straightforward rappel or belay point. The climb is straightforward in length, but the crisp, tactile demands of the cracks test both technique and mental stamina. It’s an unapologetically raw climb that won’t win any style points for flow or elegance, but its straightforward boldness invites climbers who want real rock interaction without gimmicks.
The setting in The Smoke Bluffs adds to the appeal. The area is known for its accessibility and well-maintained trails, so the approach is a pragmatic balance of forested paths with glimpses of the rugged Squamish wilderness. This spot offers a brief escape from the bustle, inviting you to gear up and face the rock with confidence. Timing your climb for a clear, sunny afternoon is ideal, especially if you choose the sunnier right side of the route where warmth can enhance grip and comfort. Wear supportive shoes adept at edging, and bring a full rack of small gear to handle the tricky placements that characterize this route.
For anyone ready to jump into a solid 5.10+ trad crux with clean protection and a classic Squamish vibe, Lust is a worthy choice. It’s best suited for climbers who appreciate straightforward routes with a genuine feel—where every placement matters, and the rock feels alive beneath your fingertips. Whether you’re ticking off your hardest traditional climbs or looking to refine crack technique, this climb sharpens your skills while rewarding you with a focused, no-frills ascent in one of BC’s best climbing enclaves.
While the rock is generally solid, some protection placements require attention to detail—nuts and small cams must be well-seated in thin cracks and seams. The descent uses a two-bolt anchor with chains; double-check anchor integrity and rappel rigging. Avoid climbing in wet or icy conditions, as slab sections become slippery quickly.
Aim for the right-hand line on sunny days for better protection and warmer rock.
Wear shoes with excellent edging capabilities to navigate the thin cracks and slabs.
Carry a standard small to medium cam rack plus a full set of nuts for reliable placements.
Approach is quick and easy from Boulder Gully parking; allow 15 minutes to the base.
Bring a rack with nuts and small cams to handle varied crack widths. Although there are some bolts for clipping, much of the protection depends on precise placements in thin seams and pods. Top anchors consist of two bolts with chains, perfect for a safe rappel or top-rope setup.
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