HomeClimbingLure of Lucre

Lure of Lucre – A Classic Sport Climb in Bell Canyon

Angwin, California United States
sport climbing
single pitch
technical face
overhang
Bell Canyon
California
Wine Country
Length: 40 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lure of Lucre
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lure of Lucre challenges climbers with a smooth, sustained 40-foot sport climb featuring a tough overhang and technical thin face moves. This Bell Canyon classic demands precise footwork and offers a rewarding line with straightforward protection options."

Lure of Lucre – A Classic Sport Climb in Bell Canyon

Lure of Lucre offers climbers a compelling challenge on the sunlit walls of Bell Canyon, located in California's renowned Wine Country. This single-pitch sport climb stretches over 40 feet of clean, sustained rock that rewards precision and stamina. The route begins with a short, punchy overhang just right of the prominent "bell" mantel feature. Surmounting this bulge places you onto a slender pillar, where thin face holds demand careful footwork and focused movement.

The climb intensifies as you ascend through a sequence of well-placed bolts, demanding consistent effort. Staying directly under the bolt line results in a steady yet demanding 5.10a experience, best suited for climbers comfortable with sustained technical face climbing. For those seeking a slightly less strenuous path, an alternate variation allows a move left toward an easier finish, clipping the last bolt of the neighboring route Once Upon a Climb at 5.6 difficulty.

Beyond the physical challenge, the route’s exposure offers an intimate connection with the surrounding landscape—gritty rock warmed by afternoon sun, with a cool breeze hinting at the nearby vineyards that define the Bay Area’s unique charm. Bell Canyon itself rests quietly within a vibrant climbing community, providing both the tranquility of nature and the convenience of proximity to Angwin and the broader San Francisco Bay Area.

Protection consists primarily of three to four reliable bolts, augmented if desired by optional small nuts or cams placed in a shallow groove above the third bolt. This makes gear selection straightforward, with emphasis on well-maintained sport hardware and a small rack for marginal protection near the roof. The placements require a sharp eye and confident adjustments to ensure safety on the runout moves near the top.

Approaching the wall is straightforward: a brief hike from a nearby parking area through mild scrubland leads to the base of the crag, making this an accessible introduction for climbers visiting the region. The wall’s southwest aspect catches ample sunshine throughout the afternoon, making late mornings to early afternoons the ideal window for climbing. Seasonal warmth varies, so early spring and fall bring the most comfortable temperatures.

Whether you come to test your technical skill or simply savor the focused flow of movement on a quality sport climb, Lure of Lucre stands as a reliable challenge with balanced risk and reward. Its placement within Bell Canyon’s quiet yet vibrant landscape makes it a technical highlight worth your attention—and a memorable addition to any Northern California climbing itinerary.

Climber Safety

While the bolts are solid, the section above the third bolt is slightly runout. Placing small gear in the available groove adds critical protection, especially for climbers less confident with runouts near overhanging terrain.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Climb the direct bolt line for the full sustained 5.10a challenge.

Consider moving left above the third bolt for a 5.6 easier finish if desired.

Bring a small rack with a few micro cams or nuts for optional gear placements.

Best climbed late morning to early afternoon to catch abundant sun on the southwest-facing wall.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating reflects sustained technical face climbing with a crux at the overhang. The grade feels consistent, requiring good balance and finger strength. The optional variation to finish on an easier 5.6 anchors offers a flexible exit and less commitment on the runout top section.

Gear Requirements

Sport route equipped with three to four bolts. Optional small nut or cam placements are available in a groove above the third bolt to protect the roof traverse and final moves.

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Tags

sport climbing
single pitch
technical face
overhang
Bell Canyon
California
Wine Country