"Lunar Lander offers a compact trad climb on Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge, featuring clean twin cracks and a straightforward ascent just below Doctor Michael Solar. Ideal for those looking to sharpen crack skills without a long commitment."
Lunar Lander carves a focused, straightforward ascent on Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge, offering climbers a fresh yet manageable taste of trad climbing in this classic Colorado setting. Situated just downhill from the more frequented Doctor Michael Solar, this route takes you directly up a pair of clean twin cracks, guiding your path to a sturdy tree that marks the top. Though short—just over 40 feet—this climb demands attentive footwork and precise gear placement, making it an excellent choice when time is limited or conditions favor a quick trad session.
The approach, part of the greater Xanadu-to-Pony Express corridor, greets you with familiar Rocky Mountain stone—solid, grippy, and weathered by time. Expect a modest climb marked by a 5.8- rating, which tends to feel approachable for intermediate trad climbers but still holds subtle challenges in its crack negotiations. The rock’s texture and the route’s directness mean your hands and feet will engage in rhythmic movement, a cadence punctuated by the natural features that invite both secure jams and thoughtful protection.
The protection is straightforward; a standard rack suffices to safeguard your ascent. While the cracks provide solid placements, there’s little room for large gear, so a well-rounded selection of smaller cams and nuts is ideal. The one-pitch length makes this route perfect for an efficient climb when the day calls for multiple shorter routes or when your schedule tightens.
Finished with the climb, a short walk-off to the left leads you smoothly back to the trail, avoiding tricky downclimbs or complex descents. This ease of exit adds a practical layer to the adventure, allowing you to stay fresh for neighboring routes or to soak in the panoramic views of Boulder’s famed Eldorado Canyon without rush.
The setting pulses with the characteristic energy of Eldorado Canyon State Park—where the rock’s historic grit meets the thrill of challenge. Whether you’re warming up, refining crack technique, or squeezing in a quick send between longer climbs, Lunar Lander balances efficiency with just enough engagement to leave you satisfied and ready for what comes next.
While the climb itself stays solid, be cautious of loose chips near the base during spring melt. The walk-off is straightforward but requires attention to footing when descending left at the top—avoid scrambling down unstable sections.
Bring a compact rack focused on small to medium cams for optimal gear placements.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun on West Ridge, especially in summer.
Familiarize yourself with the walk-off trail to the left for a quick and safe descent.
Check recent rock conditions; Eldorado can have loose chips after winter thaw.
Standard rack is recommended to protect the twin cracks effectively. Small to medium cams paired with nuts will handle placements securely along the short pitch.
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