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Lunar Avenue: A Test of Precision on Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge

Boulder, Colorado United States
exposed move
crack climbing
small gear placements
single pitch
eldorado canyon
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lunar Avenue
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lunar Avenue offers a focused trad climb on Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge, balancing manageable 5.8 moves with protective challenges. Ideal for climbers sharpening their trad gear skills, this route invites steady heads and precise placements."

Lunar Avenue: A Test of Precision on Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge

Lunar Avenue weaves a tight narrative along the West Ridge’s rugged face in Eldorado Canyon, offering a single-pitch trad climb that demands steady nerves and exact gear placements. While it doesn’t carry the full 's' (serious) rating usually reserved for tougher routes, this 5.8- R challenges climbers with a measured dose of exposure and technical moves that can catch the unwary off guard. The climb starts with confident, secure holds allowing a careful gear placement low on a crack—perfect for setting your rhythm. As you move upward, a small flared seam requires finesse in gear placement, where an offset nut or a tiny stopper refuses to settle comfortably, teasing your judgment and increasing mental engagement. The crux arrives just past this point—a move that leans more on body position and balance than brute strength but is made distinctly more serious if your protection isn't perfectly placed. Here, a #2 Camalot finds a coveted home, offering a solid rest and mental reprieve amid the challenge. The final stretch rewards with straightforward holds to the anchors, allowing for a measured exhale and a moment to appreciate the soaring granite peaks that define Boulder’s climbing heritage. Descending involves a walkoff northbound, adding a mellow finish to a technically satisfying climb. For climbers venturing out, the approach through Eldorado Canyon State Park is well-marked and accessible, yet the route’s unique personality requires a steady hand with trad gear—friends in the #0.5 to #2 range, small offset nuts, and micro cams provide the protection necessary to navigate the subtle cracks and seams. Lunar Avenue strikes a compelling balance—enough spice to keep focus sharp yet approachable for those ready to refine their trad skills in a setting alive with Colorado’s stark beauty.

Climber Safety

Approach this climb with respect for the limited protection in some sections, especially at the crux where placements are sparse and sometimes tricky. The rock is solid but placements demand careful evaluation. The walkoff descent is easy but requires attention as the northward trail can be loose underfoot.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start with solid cams low on the face before the flared seam.

Place a #2 Friend at the crux to secure a rest and reduce runout risk.

Watch for loose or awkward gear spots above the crux; small cams add security here.

Exit via the north walkoff—clear and straightforward after the climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8- R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8- R grade on Lunar Avenue feels slightly stiffer than a mellow 5.8 due to the runout nature and gear placements required. The crux spot adds justification for the 'R' rating, demanding precise protection to avoid a long fall. Compared to nearby Eldorado climbs of similar grade, this route’s challenge rests more on mental control and gear confidence than on pure physical difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack with friends from #0.5 to #2, include small offset nuts or tiny stoppers for the flared cracks, and a micro cam or TCU for tricky placements. Avoid relying on straight-tapered RPs as they may not seat well.

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Tags

exposed move
crack climbing
small gear placements
single pitch
eldorado canyon