Lucy Goosey extends the thrilling tradition of El Potrero Chico’s towering walls, offering climbers an eight-pitch sport route that pushes beyond the familiar bounds of Supernova. This route threads through Club Mex Wall’s second headwall, inviting ascenders to carve their path through an evolving landscape of hidden gardens and stubby spires, culminating at the highest summit on the park’s east side. The climb begins in a prominent chimney that immediately demands careful stemming and slab moves, setting the tone for a sustained challenge peppered with technical sequences graded between 5.7 and 5.10c.

As you ascend, expect the upper pitches to surprise with loose rock and rugged terrain—this is a route still settling into its form. The underdeveloped trail and variable rock quality add a pioneering single-mindedness to the experience, rewarding only those with respect for adventure and seasoned familiarity with EPC’s character. Between the second and fifth pitches, anticipate a mix of physical stem moves and delicate hands-on balancing, capped by a third-class traverse that skirts a ledge where a palm frond bivy remains as an invitation for those wanting to extend their time in the cliffs.

The climb rewards steady progress with striking views of the canyon’s walls and the wide stretch of rugged northern Mexico beyond. After a mostly technical approach, pitch six offers a respite with easier stemming ramps before a short hike leads into a gardened passage full of resilient vegetation that feels both alive and watchful. The final pitch challenges with a handful of technical moves before giving way to easier scrambling, aided by a recent handline installation that safely guides climbers to the summit register.

Planning your ascent demands careful preparation: bring a 60m rope for efficient rappels, and expect the possibility of multiple tries to smooth the trail and clean loose sections. The approach following Supernova’s summit involves a steady first-class hike, and the descent currently requires a rappel down the route’s pitches. Future plans for a quicker rappel via Los Lobos Canyon promise to streamline the exit but remain forthcoming.

This climb merges the exhilaration of first ascents with the practical realities of evolving routes. For those looking to push beyond well-trodden lines into true El Potrero wilderness, Lucy Goosey is an invitation to engage with the canyon’s raw heart. Treat each move with respect, pack methodically, and savor the journey through an area where nature shapes the experience with unyielding honesty.