HomeClimbingLuck of the Draw

Luck of the Draw: A Compact Sport Climb on Lily Mountain

Estes Park, Colorado United States
short climb
bulge crux
jug holds
fixed anchors
quick rappel
Length: 25 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Luck of the Draw
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Luck of the Draw offers a concise yet engaging sport climb on Lily Mountain’s Quickie Cliff. Featuring a defining bulge and split bolt options mid-route, it’s perfect for climbers seeking a short, technical challenge close to Estes Park."

Luck of the Draw: A Compact Sport Climb on Lily Mountain

Located on the rugged face of Quickie Cliff within the shadow of Colorado's Lily Mountain, "Luck of the Draw" offers a brief but satisfying sport climb that packs character into its 25-foot ascent. This route, perched as the third climb from the left in a lightly aspen-lined gully, features a defining bulge that challenges your body positioning without overstaying its welcome. As you ascend, jugs invite confident hands to select their own sequence, making each move feel deliberate and personal. Midway, two distinct bolt options split the path: a lean left favored by climbers seeking a slight technical edge, or a rightward line offering a slightly more straightforward rhythm. While the climb ends shortly after with anchors positioned just as energy peaks, it leaves a sense of wanting more — a quick yet rewarding burst of vertical motion. The rock here holds well, and the bolts, including a pair of Metolius rap anchors, provide dependable protection for those managing the crux with steady focus. At an easy 5.8 rating, it makes an excellent introduction for sport climbers venturing into the area or a quick project for seasoned climbers warming up on Lily Mountain's cliffs. The approach is short and well-marked, with a comfortable walk through gentle aspen groves providing a peaceful foreground to the adventure. Given the Clover-like setting of lesser crowds, early morning climbs promise cool shade before Colorado’s sun fully claims the day. Plan your gear to include light sport rack essentials and be prepared for straightforward rappelling off two fixed anchors. While the climb won’t stretch your endurance, it demands precise footwork and composure on its bulging features. Expect a blend of muscle and technique, with echoes of the natural surroundings pushing you upward.

Climber Safety

Though the climb is short, the bulge demands controlled movement to avoid swinging off the jugs. Use caution on the top anchors during setup and rappel, as the cliff edges can be sharp and the anchor bolts, while reliable, should be approached with standard safety checks.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length25 feet

Local Tips

Approach early to catch the shade offered by aspens lining the gully.

Bring a light sport rack; three bolts and fixed anchors provide solid protection.

Prepare for a bulging crux that requires careful jug sequencing.

Double-check anchor knots and rappel gear before descending the 25-foot rappel.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Luck of the Draw sits at a manageable difficulty that nudges climbers to focus on movement over strength. While experienced hands may find the grade friendly, the bulge adds a brief but important test of technique that prevents this route from feeling soft. Compared to other sport climbs in the Lily Mountain area, its compact nature makes it a great quick climb, though the crux sequence requires attention to jug selection and foot placement.

Gear Requirements

Three bolts secure the route, with a pair of Metolius rap bolt anchors at the top, allowing for a straightforward single-rope rappel directly from the anchors.

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Tags

short climb
bulge crux
jug holds
fixed anchors
quick rappel