"A moderately trafficked two-pitch route blending cracks and bolted face climbing in California’s Southern Sierra. Love Potion No. 9 demands steady technique and clear route-finding in a quiet, rugged setting."
Love Potion No. 9 offers a compelling introduction to trad and sport climbing on the rugged granite faces of The Needles, tucked within California’s Southern Sierra. With its blend of crack systems and bolted faces, this two-pitch route provides an approachable yet engaging challenge that balances steady technical moves and strategic protection placements. The climb doesn’t attract heavy foot traffic, inviting climbers who appreciate a quieter adventure where route-finding is part of the experience.
The approach to the base is straightforward but requires attention to detail—in a landscape marked by blocky spires and forest patches, the route start isn’t immediately obvious, demanding focus to spot subtle trail markers and natural features. Once engaged, the first pitch unfolds along intermittent cracks and slender fins sculpted from granite, gradually easing towards a bolted face. Climbers will find pacing themselves crucial here; the protection thins as the grade hovers around 5.9+, rewarding thoughtful gear placement and steady footwork. The belay stance, marked by a bolted anchor, offers a solid respite and a moment to take in the open views shaping the horizon.
Pitch two increases in steepness, intensifying the climb’s demands. Four to five well-placed bolts guide the ascent, but the crucial move comes as the wall rounds a corner to the right. Here, carrying a sling for a key knob tie-off is essential, providing security while traversing rightward before ascending once more to another bolted belay. The movement requires balance and careful body positioning, where momentum meets precision.
Descending is equally practical: rappelling with two ropes along the Piranha/Parasite wall allows for a smooth and controlled return to the base, making the route efficient for climbers keen on maximizing daylight hours. The gear list stays light, centered on a rack suitable for traditional placements, combined with quickdraws and slings to navigate the bolted sections effectively.
Overall, Love Potion No. 9 captures the essence of climbing in The Needles — offering a moderately challenging line that rewards preparation without demanding exhaustive technical mastery. It tests route-finding skills, physical endurance, and gear judgment, catering to climbers ready to expand their trad experience while staying grounded in a stunning Southern Sierra setting.
Be cautious during the traverse on pitch two, especially near the knob tie-off. The protection there is key, but placements can feel sparse. Also, the granite surface can be sharp—wear gloves if needed. Descending requires care—use two ropes for rappels to avoid hanging ropes or anchor issues.
Focus on spotting trail markers to find the route’s start—route-finding is part of the experience.
Pack a sling long enough to secure the knob on pitch two; it’s a key safety move.
Approach early to avoid afternoon heat and maximize shaded climbing on the face.
Bring two ropes for descent rappels along the Piranha/Parasite wall.
Light rack recommended, focusing on trad gear for cracks alongside quickdraws and slings for bolted sections. A sling is crucial for tying off a key knob on pitch two. Two ropes are needed for rappelling.
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