"Love Gas offers a sharp, single-pitch challenge on steep granite plates in Joshua Tree. Combining moderate ramps with technical face climbing, it rewards focus and precise footwork amid the park’s rugged desert expanse."
Love Gas stands as a compelling single-pitch sport route tucked into the southwestern corner of Joshua Tree National Park. Its setting lies amid the sprawling granite formations of Wonderland of Rocks, where steep plates and technical face climbing test your precision and control. The route branches off just right of the classic "A Bull With Gas," inviting climbers to follow a low-angle ramp before tackling harder moves higher on the wall. The climb demands a focused approach—starting with moderate 5.9 angled plates featuring several fixed pins and bolts, it soon transitions into sustained 5.10a face climbing requiring clean footwork and steady balance. The granite’s texture offers reliable friction, but the steepness combined with delicate holds means you’ll need a steady grip and careful pacing.
Bring a 60-meter rope at minimum, though a 70-meter allows for a more comfortable descent via the two-bolt rappel anchors. The approach into Wonderland of Rocks is straightforward, traversing desert scrub and rocky paths under the California sun. Plan your climb for early morning hours in spring or fall to avoid peak heat and to benefit from the rock’s pleasant temperature and good friction. Protection on Love Gas is clearly sport-oriented; prepare to clip multiple bolts and take plenty of quickdraws to keep your leads efficient.
Overall, Love Gas is an accessible yet rewarding test of sport climbing skill in one of Joshua Tree’s more remote sectors. It delivers a crisp granite experience far removed from crowded climbing areas, letting you engage with the rock’s texture and the surrounding desert’s raw quiet. Although short in length at about 100 feet, it packs a punch in technical demands and route-finding, making it a solid choice for climbers looking to blend adventure with focused, precise climbing on a bright day in California’s high desert.
The climb requires attention to proper rope length—60 meters minimum with 70 meters preferred for rappel. Some sections on the lower ramp feature older fixed pins; avoid relying solely on these and trust the bolted protection. Desert heat can amplify dehydration risks—carry abundant water and dress for strong sun exposure.
Start early in the day to avoid afternoon heat.
Bring at least 12 quickdraws for smooth clipping.
A 70-meter rope makes the rappel straightforward and safe.
Watch for loose rock near the lower ramp section.
The route requires numerous quickdraws to clip bolts efficiently. Anchors are two-bolt setups, optimized for 60-meter ropes, but a 70-meter rope enhances rappelling safety and ease.
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