"Love and Money is a accessible trad climb threading twin cracks and a steeper traverse on solid rock in California’s San Bernardino Mountains. Ideal for those seeking straightforward protection challenges and sharp mountain air."
Love and Money offers a focused, accessible trad climbing experience within the rugged San Bernardino Mountains, just above Green Valley Lake. This single-pitch route threads through a pair of well-defined cracks at the base before transitioning to a steeper traverse that parallels the more trafficked Sausage Medley climb. From the first hold, the rock feels alive beneath your fingers, textured and grippy, while the surrounding pines breathe a crisp mountain air that sharpens your focus. Although modest in length at 65 feet, the climb demands attention to gear placement and rope management due to the current anchor’s placement far back from the line, which causes noticeable rope drag. Expect a solid 5.8 rated challenge—accessible for confident beginners stepping into trad or seasoned climbers warming up for more intense sequences.
The approach is straightforward: leaving the Running Springs area, hikers find parking and follow a short forested trail peppered with manzanita and incense cedar, all drawing you gradually up to the rock face. The route’s southwest aspect means afternoon sun beams down brightly, warming the rock and encouraging an early morning or late afternoon start to dodge the hottest hours. This also allows the cooler mountain breeze to refresh your climb without immediate heat fatigue.
Protection relies mainly on standard trad gear up to two inches, with placements generally solid but requiring careful thought to avoid unnecessary drag along the steeper traversing section. Bolted anchors are in place, easing safe top-rope setups or rappelling options, though the anchor's location means longer rope management. Bringing extra slings and minimizing rope length through placements can help mitigate this.
Downclimbing from the anchor calls for care; while the descent can be rappelled, climbers often opt for a controlled downclimb on lower-angle rock to save time. The rock quality remains dependable but watch for loose rock patches, especially after wet weather runoff.
For those craving an approachable trad outing with a taste of engaging finger and hand jams, Love and Money fits the bill with honest climbing and mountain atmosphere. The limited community votes suggest a quieter spot away from busier faces but definitely worth the trip for those eager to sharpen skills in a rewarding yet manageable setting.
Be mindful of rope drag issues originating at the bolted anchor, currently set back from the climb line. This means longer rope stretches that can catch on rock features. Also, watch for unstable rock fragments near the upper section, especially after recent precipitation. Use caution during descent; rigor in rappelling technique or controlled downclimbing is essential due to uneven ledges.
Start early or late to avoid afternoon sun heating the southwest-facing route.
Bring extra slings to reduce rope drag caused by the distant anchor.
Keep an eye on loose rock patches near the top, especially after rain.
Approach trail is short and easy; comfortable hiking shoes suffice.
Standard trad rack to 2-inch cams is required. The bolted anchor lets you set up top ropes or rappels but expect some rope drag from the anchor’s current position far from the climb line.
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