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Lost Horizons: A Bold Trad Climb on Discovery Wall

Soledad, California United States
offwidth
trad
exposed arete
single pitch
crack climbing
central coast
pinnacles
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lost Horizons
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lost Horizons offers an unheralded but gripping single-pitch trad climb on Pinnacles’ East Side, blending crack jams with bold face moves and a challenging off-width. It’s a perfect test for climbers eager to hone their trad skills in a raw, quiet setting."

Lost Horizons: A Bold Trad Climb on Discovery Wall

Lost Horizons stands as one of Pinnacles National Park’s quieter challenges, tucked away on the East Side's Discovery Wall. This single-pitch trad route stretches 90 feet and delivers a compelling mix of crack climbing and bold, technical face moves that demand both finesse and respect. Beginning with a quirky, irregular crack that leads you toward the nearby Mammary Pump route, the climb immediately tests your hand jamming and crack technique. Shortly after, you veer right to pass a lone bolt, then confront a sharp, exposed arete that slices through the angle of the wall. It's a move that asks for focus—not only for balance but also to avoid an unfortunate encounter with the rock’s razor edge.

As you progress, the rock opens into a flared corner crack that invites solid finger jams and careful footwork. This section feels alive, as if the wall itself is daring you to trust your gear and your instincts. Above, a distinct off-width presents the route’s crux. Here, climbers face a choice: commit fully to the off-width, use face holds to bypass it, or mix both techniques. Without a sizable piece of protection, the OW can feel intimidating, so bringing a "Big Dude" or similarly large cam is not just recommended—it’s essential for safety and confidence.

Protection on Lost Horizons consists of two bolts strategically placed for peace of mind, complemented by medium to large traditional gear placements. The highlight is that big piece for the off-width, crucial to protect the trickiest segment of the climb. The rock quality is generally solid, but the exposed arete demands careful body positioning to avoid scrapes and ensure smooth, efficient movement.

Accessing this gem requires a short approach through the Pinnacles’ rugged Central Coast terrain, with coordinates placing you at 36.4759 latitude and -121.18616 longitude. The route offers a raw, engaging experience with natural light shading it variably throughout the day, making mornings or late afternoons ideal for climbing when the sun is less intense. Loose rock is minimal, but general caution around the arete and off-width is key.

Lost Horizons is perfect for climbers looking to push their crack skills in a vivid setting with a strong dose of mental grit. Its relative obscurity means fewer climbers and a more personal connection with the route’s unique challenges. Not a climb for beginners, this line rewards careful preparation and a confident rack loaded with sizes large and moderate. Whether you choose to challenge the ow or skirt it with technical face moves, Lost Horizons won’t disappoint those seeking a memorable single-pitch adventure on California’s Central Coast.

Climber Safety

The exposed sharp arete can catch climbers off guard—maintain deliberate movement here. The off-width section lacks large passive protection, so failing to place a solid large cam risks serious falls.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Bring a "Big Dude" or equivalent large cam for the off-width.

Start early or late in the day to avoid harsh midday sun on the exposed arete.

Watch out for the sharp arete—mind your body position to prevent scrapes.

The approach is short but rugged; sturdy shoes and steady footing are recommended.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated a straightforward 5.8, Lost Horizons feels exactly that with a handful of moves demanding precise technique. The off-width presents the mental crux, making the grade feel more serious if you’re unfamiliar with OW climbing. Compared to other local Pinnacles climbs, it’s approachable but not to be underestimated due to its gear and exposure demands.

Gear Requirements

Two bolts with medium to large trad gear, plus a very large cam for the off-width section are essential for this climb.

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Tags

offwidth
trad
exposed arete
single pitch
crack climbing
central coast
pinnacles