"Lost Friendships is a focused 100-foot trad climb in Murrin Park that challenges climbers with a beginner’s crack, an awkward finger jam, and a straightforward anchor finish. Perfect for those seeking technical crack work in a scenic, accessible setting just outside Squamish."
Lost Friendships offers a focused, spirited trad climbing experience in the Baldwins Roof Area of Murrin Park, just outside Squamish, British Columbia. This 100-foot single-pitch route is an ideal test of technique and composure for climbers ready to engage with moderate cracks and challenging finger jams. The route begins with a practical beginner’s crack, inviting climbers to find rhythm in their hand and foot placements with steady upward movement. The rock here feels alive beneath your fingertips—cool, solid, and reliable, but with enough subtle imperfections to demand precise attention.
Shortly after the initial crack, you reach the first set of chains that mark a key transition. Here the climb shifts focus, requiring an awkward move into a finger crack that forces you to engage smaller holds with care and patience. The delicate nature of this section asks for both strength and finesse, rewarding steady technique over brute force. From this point, the route angles right, protecting a solid anchor above, giving climbers a satisfying sense of completion as they clip in.
Murrin Park’s granite provides a textured surface perfect for secure placements, while the surrounding forest breathes subtle scents of cedar and pine that drift on the breeze. Sounds of nearby rushing water mix with rustling leaves, making this climb not just a physical challenge but a sensory experience. This climb is well-suited for those who are comfortable placing a rack of cams, as protection typically relies on a single set of cams extending to a #2 Black Diamond, with opportunities for solid, reliable placements.
For practical planning, expect an approach of roughly 20 minutes through well-marked trails in the park. The climb faces mostly north, catching dappled sunlight in the morning and relief in the afternoon heat. Early to mid-spring through fall offers ideal conditions, avoiding the damp chill of winter and summer crowds. Local climbers praise Lost Friendships for its blend of straightforward, technical crack work and scenic, approachable setting.
Whether you’re training crack technique or adding a reliable classic to your Squamish list, Lost Friendships provides a practical yet invigorating outing. Be sure to bring a full set of cams for protection, sturdy shoes suited to crack climbing, and enough water to stay energized on the approach. The route’s moderate 5.10c rating offers a healthy challenge without being overwhelmingly hard, making it a prime choice for dedicated trad enthusiasts ready to explore Murrin’s granite offerings.
Watch for tricky gear placements in the finger crack—rushing these can lead to insecure protection. The anchor sits above a slight ledge; avoid resting too long there to maintain focus and avoid loose debris.
Start early to take advantage of morning light on the north-facing wall.
Bring a full set of cams; finger-sized gear is crucial here.
Trail access is straightforward but carries light underbrush; sturdy shoes help on the approach.
Hydrate well before the climb; shade provides cool respite but the approach trail offers limited water sources.
A single rack of cams up to a #2 Black Diamond is adequate for protection. Pay close attention to the finger crack section where precise placements will ease clipping at the anchor.
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