"Loose Lady unfolds a tight sequence of hand and finger cracks weaving up the arete beside Cold Comfort. This single-pitch trad climb challenges precision and gear management in Squamish’s iconic Smoke Bluffs."
Loose Lady is an inviting one-pitch trad climb that delivers an intimate encounter with a compact, technical finger and hand crack system right beside the well-known Cold Comfort. Located in the heart of Boulder Gully within The Smoke Bluffs, this route challenges climbers to weave along the arete’s right side, engaging thin cracks and delicate liebacks that reward patient movement and solid technique. The climb begins with a traverse along easy edges to reach a finger-to-thin-hand crack that ascends to a sandy, comfortable ledge on the arete’s west face—a welcome rest spot that tests your rack management as you prepare for the next section.
From this ledge, climbers face a thin crack system and a dihedral outlined by flakes, demanding precise body positioning and finger strength. The final moves involve a leftward traverse to join the shared anchor with Cold Comfort, rounding out a route that stands as a worthy adventure amidst two popular neighbors. Loose Lady tends to live in the shadow of Cold Comfort and Supervalue, but it has a character all its own: compact, focused, and rewarding.
Protection is straightforward for those carrying a standard rack of cams and nuts, with an emphasis on smaller sizes—finger to thin hand-sized gear covers most placements, and though a #3 Camalot fits in a pod near the top, it's mostly unnecessary. For those seeking a slightly bolder challenge, two bolts guard a slab variation off the ledge, turning the move into a solid 5.10 crux.
The Smoke Bluffs area itself offers more than just good routes—it shapes climbers through its forest-framed rock faces and cool microclimate, which balances sun exposure and shaded pockets well, especially in spring and fall. Boulder Gully’s access trails wind through mossy, root-laced earth with short approaches that keep your energy fresh for the climb ahead. Whether you’re tuning your crack climbing or hunting solid single-pitch trad that mixes finger jams with technical face moves, Loose Lady gives you a concentrated slice of Squamish’s legendary granite without excess complications.
Prepare with high-traction climbing shoes that excel on thin edges and be ready for variable friction on the granite surface. Early starts help avoid crowd peaks and make for a quieter experience in this well-loved climbing zone. Water and light snacks are recommended, as the short but technical nature of the route can demand steady focus without an easy break in sight. Loose Lady invites attention to detail, measured pacing, and a confident rack setup for a hands-on adventure that complements the broader spectrum of Smoke Bluffs offerings.
Crack quality is generally solid, but some placements can be tight and technical—pay close attention to pro sizing, especially as you approach the small pods near the top. The sandy ledge offers a reliable rest, but the traverse sections require careful footwork. Be alert for loose rock on the slab variation and maintain focus through the exposed moves.
Start early to avoid peak crowd times in The Smoke Bluffs.
Bring shoes with excellent edging capabilities for the thin cracks and slab moves.
Focus on small cam placements; carrying a compact rack saves weight and hassle.
Carry water and light snacks—the approach is short but technical climbing demands steady energy.
A standard trad rack with cams and nuts focusing on smaller sizes—from finger to thin-hand cracks—is optimal. Larger cams are mostly unnecessary, though a #3 Camalot fits a pod near the top. Two bolts protect a slab variation if you prefer to skip the crux.
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