Loony Bar stakes its claim on the right flank of Middle Elbow Room, offering an approachable yet demanding climb that beckons sport climbers keen on testing their pocket technique and face climbing skills. This 80-foot route ascends just shy of the full height of a broad crack before veering slightly left onto a steep face, where a sequence of well-defined pockets guides climbers toward a secure bolted anchor. The route’s setting at the upper reaches of Owens River Gorge grants a rugged, raw backdrop dominated by rock faces cut sharply against the Sierra Eastside skyline.

From the start, climbers are met with a steep, loose slope that demands careful footing on a base eroding from constant exposure. This geological fragility adds a practical layer of caution: approach with deliberate steps and consider the footing conditions in wet weather to avoid slips. The climb’s sport designation, anchored by eight bolts plus the top anchor, provides confidence without the need for additional gear placements, allowing focus to shift toward body positioning and strategic use of pockets.

The crux lies in managing the transition from the crack to the face—a shift that requires a blend of crack climbing finesse and precise pocket pulling. Climbers can expect a technical dance between open hand jams and crimps, rewarding those prepared to move efficiently under sustained tension. The route’s 5.10a rating hints at a challenge accessible to intermediate climbers who bring solid technique and endurance.

Owens River Gorge itself stands as an outdoor classroom for sport climbing, where routes are short but packed with concentrated moves. The environment is strikingly rugged: sun-bleached rock surfaces contrast against the shadowed groves lining the gorge bottom, while fresh mountain air carries the occasional sharp call of distant wildlife. For climbers, this setting balances natural beauty with a focus on technical climbing, making it a prime destination for those refining their sport skills without the commitment of long multi-pitch climbs.

Preparation here means bringing shoes with sticky rubber for reliable friction on pockets and small edges, and carrying enough water to stay hydrated during mid-day efforts under the open sky. Timing climbs to avoid the harshest afternoon sun can significantly improve comfort and performance. The short approach to the base rewards early arrivals with cooler air and quieter surroundings.

In the wider context of Owens River Gorge, Loony Bar offers an accessible taste of the area’s steep sport climbing, ideal for those seeking efficient, intense climbing sessions. With a manageable length and protective bolting, it encourages confident movement and focus on technique over endurance. Not simply a quick workout, it invites climbers to engage with the rock’s personality—the crack’s steady invitation and the face's pocketed challenge—combining to form a brief yet fulfilling test of skill and mental focus.