Looney Fringe presents a focused, hands-on trad climb that carves its line up a striking arete just left of the better-known Twenty Minute Workout route. This single-pitch climb extends approximately 60 feet, challenging you with solid 5.10c moves that demand precise gear placements and a confident approach to every move on the flakes. Situated in the rugged Smoke Bluffs area of Squamish, British Columbia, this route offers climbers a raw and rewarding experience, garnished by forested surroundings and steep granite faces that demand full engagement.

The climb unfolds on sharp, flake-studded rock that invites careful protection placements ranging from thin hands to finger-sized gear, with nuts rounding out your rack. The crux requires committing to slender edges and delicate body positioning, set against an exposed arete that leans into the wind and light. Though the route is not one of the Smoke Bluffs’ most popular classics, it rewards climbers who have already ticked off many staples—offering a fresh challenge without the crowds. The rock’s texture is gritty and reliable, with just enough friction to keep feet planted as you navigate upward.

Approach to Looney Fringe is straightforward but requires focus. The hike to the base weaves through a forested trail that skirt the edge of towering granite walls and swaying evergreens. The proximity to Squamish means you’ll be on well-marked paths, yet the surrounding wilderness holds an energetic quiet that primes you for the climb ahead. The ascent itself balances adventure with control; the arete demands steady hands and a clear head as you place gear and move efficiently. The anchor bolts stand ready at the top, providing a safe bailout after the push.

This climb's character is part technical precision, part mental game. The protection is mostly thin and delicate, necessitating a double rack of thin hands and a single rack of fingers, with nuts to complement. The anchor bolts provide security at the top but gear placements along the way require a keen eye and steady nerves. Local wisdom advises relying on smaller pro and emphasizing clean placements for safety and flow. Times of day with cool morning sun and moderate temperatures from spring through fall create the best conditions.

If you’re looking to add a 5.10c trad climb to your portfolio that steps outside the most beaten paths, Looney Fringe offers a compelling choice. Though shorter in length, its technical pocketing and subtle sequences make it punch above its weight in engagement. Precise footwork, smooth transitions, and confidence in gear placements will get you through its crack and arete climbs. Post-climb, the descent is a simple walk off or rappel down the Smoke Bluffs network, letting you reflect on the climb’s sharp character as you return to the forest floor. Looney Fringe demands respect and delivers pure trad essence—a crisp, elemental climb worth the effort.