"Looking Backward delivers two pitches of technical crack climbing on Tahquitz Rock’s Maiden Buttress. From steep finger cracks to a flared chimney, this route tests precision and endurance with sharp, authentic granite challenges."
Carved into the right flank of Tahquitz Rock’s Maiden Buttress, Looking Backward is a compelling two-pitch trad climb that blends technical crack work with gritty terrain. The ascent begins where a short approach of scrambling and easy fifth-class moves transitions into serious finger jams and challenging liebacks. Pitch one sets the tone with a steep finger and hand crack that sharpens into a slender, splitter finger crack. The crux arrives in the form of a delicate, right-facing lieback requiring precise technique and concentration to navigate the thin rock features. A small rack supplemented with extra thin gear is essential here, as protection opportunities narrow on the sharper placements.
Pitch two offers a contrasting movement, pushing climbers into a flared chimney framed by a hand-to-offwidth crack. This section tests strength and patience as the chimney tightens and widens on alternate moves. Despite dropping a grade compared to the first pitch, this segment demands sustained physical effort and a willingness to work through less obvious holds and placements.
The overall route stretches approximately 200 feet, threading the edge between physical strain and mental focus. This climb embraces the raw quality of Tahquitz’s granite—rough, exposed, and demanding respect. Climbers should prepare for the approach by packing shoes suitable for both scrambling and technical crack climbing, while ensuring their rack includes thin nuts and cams tailored to narrow fissures.
Situated near Idyllwild, California, this climb benefits from southern exposure that invites morning ascents in cooler weather, while afternoons bring warmth that softens the rock’s sharp edges without becoming oppressive. The location itself, part of a rugged cluster of classic routes on Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks, is a magnet for climbers wanting to test finger and hand crack skills in a setting that offers both challenge and rewarding views.
Experienced climbers will appreciate the moderate scale and often unforgiving cracks, making Looking Backward a fantastic route to sharpen technique without the commitment of multi-pitch big wall climbs. Given the technical demands, climbers are advised to approach with patience and respect for the rock’s subtle complexities. Whether it’s your first experience on Maiden Buttress or a return visit, this route promises an immediate, grounded connection to Tahquitz’s enduring granite spirit.
Protection can be sparse and technical on pitch one, so careful gear placements with thin cams and nuts are vital. The scrambling approach requires attention to footing, especially when gaining the base in the early morning or after rain. Loose rock and sharp edges on cracks demand precise hand and footwork to avoid slips.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the south-facing buttress.
Wear shoes that balance edging with crack climbing comfort.
Brush off dirt and loose rock at the base; the approach includes some scrambling.
Double-check your thin gear; replacements here can be tough mid-route.
A standard trad rack fits this climb, but bring extra thin gear for the narrow finger cracks on the first pitch. Thin nuts and small cams are critical to protect the delicate placements leading up to and through the crux.
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