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Look Both Ways

St. John's, Canada
trad
top rope
single pitch
technical moves
beginner friendly
trad gear required
Length: 28 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Look Both Ways
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Look Both Ways offers a focused trad challenge just steps from the iconic Kiddy Crack, blending technical finesse with welcoming rock in Newfoundland’s Spanky's Playground. This short pitch rewards concentration and calm with meaningful movement on gently angled terrain."

Look Both Ways

Look Both Ways stands as a subtle yet rewarding climb tucked within the rugged framework of Spanky's Playground on Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula. This 28-foot single-pitch climb invites climbers into a focused encounter with the rock, beginning just to the right of the lively 'Kiddy Crack' under a small roofed section. The route challenges you with a handful of precise, technical moves that test balance and fingertip control without overwhelming force. As you navigate these careful steps along a diagonal line, the stone seems to guide your hand seamlessly to meet the shared finish with Kiddy Crack. This climb is a promising entry point for climbers seeking a traditional style adventure that encourages finesse over brute strength.

Situated deep within the heart of a coastal climbing area, Look Both Ways benefits from a quiet atmosphere away from large crowds. The rock here reflects years of wind and sea, offering textured holds that demand intention and awareness. Though its grade sits at a comfortable 5.6, the feel on the face includes subtle sequences that keep you engaged, preventing the route from feeling overly easy or predictable.

Protection on this climb requires a traditional rack, as bolts are absent along the line itself. The safety net arrives in the anchor bolts placed at the small ledge above, making top rope setups straightforward for early attempts and lowering stress on placements below. Climbers should be ready with standard trad gear—small to medium cams and nuts—to secure the varied cracks and features encountered on the way up. The approach to the climb weaves through forested terrain marked by crisp, salty air and the distant song of gulls, setting a contemplative mood that primes you for the task ahead.

For those planning their outing, timing your climb during mid-morning to early afternoon offers balanced sunlight, illuminating the rock without intense glare or heat. The climb’s orientation provides enough shade to keep finger skin from overheating, a small but valuable consideration for sustained attempts or coaching sessions. After sending, the descent involves a simple walk back following established trails that wind through the coastal forest and scrub, keeping the return smooth and low stress.

Look Both Ways is more than just a short climb—it’s a moment of connection with an understated sector where nature demands respect and technique. Whether you’re fine-tuning skills or enjoying a calm day out, this route provides both approachable adventure and grounded challenge in the wild beauty of Newfoundland’s coastal climb scene.

Climber Safety

This climb lacks bolts along the route itself, so ensure you place reliable protection with a full trad rack. The rock is solid but keep an eye on the anchor bolts at the ledge to verify they are secure before lowering.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length28 feet

Local Tips

Start climbing from just right of the Kiddy Crack roof sector for easy access.

Use precise footwork to navigate the tricky but manageable diagonal moves.

Plan your climb for mid-morning to early afternoon for the best sun and shade balance.

Prepare for a straightforward walk-off descent through forest trails.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:Though the climb is rated a 5.6, the sequence feels thoughtfully engaging rather than purely moderate. Expect a few technical moves that demand deliberate body positioning, making the grade feel just right for those honing trad skills.

Gear Requirements

No bolts along the route itself; bring a standard trad rack including small to medium cams and nuts. Anchor bolts are installed at the ledge for safe top rope or belay setup.

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Tags

trad
top rope
single pitch
technical moves
beginner friendly
trad gear required