"Living the Dream on First Cliff offers a solid 140-foot trad route featuring a technical mix of cracks, underclings, and a committing traverse. Ideal for trad climbers seeking smooth movement in a rugged Sierra Eastside setting."
Living the Dream unfolds along the jagged granite faces of First Cliff, located in the Patricia Bowl just east of Mammoth Lakes, California. This one-pitch trad climb stretches about 140 feet, inviting climbers to engage with sharp cracks, subtle underclings, and technical traverses that test both finesse and route-finding. The climb begins in a shallow, right-facing corner beneath a looming chimney and pod formation that seems to watch challengers carefully as they size it up. Moving upward, you’ll find yourself threading your fingers into clean cracks and in-cut edges, gaining steady but varied holds.
Halfway through, the route demands a delicate balance—thin sections push the limits without resorting to brute force, while the left-facing dihedral rewards precision. Though no fist jams are required, there’s ample opportunity to feel the rock's texture shift beneath you as you transition from the undercling and make a leftward traverse beneath a small roof or lip just left of the chimney. This traverse can feel exposed, lending a heightened focus as you negotiate the move with confidence and calm.
At the top, climbers face a choice: finish out a faint flake heading left or continue straight up and traverse to a bolted anchor that’s reliably fixed, outfitted with links for rappelling. Loose rock can appear, especially near the anchor and traverse, so mindful foot placement and helmet use are essential. The climb’s moderate 5.8 rating offers fun movement and solid protection for newer trad climbers eager to sharpen technique in a setting where mountain air is crisp, pine-scented, and alive with the sounds of wind sweeping across the Sierra’s stark ridges.
Gear requirements lean toward doubles in small to medium cams, primarily up to 2 inches. While some recommendations stretch to 3.5 inches, most parties won’t find the need to carry larger sizes. Small gear, such as micro cams up to 0.75 Camalot, is valuable for filling thin sections. The bolted anchor simplifies the descent, but bringing two ropes for a double rappel is advisable; a single 70-meter rope can work if careful with knot placement on belay.
Access to First Cliff’s Patricia Bowl involves a moderately easy approach with well-worn trails weaving through open granite and scattered lodgepoles. Allow about 20–30 minutes from the parking area near Rock Creek. The trail rises gradually then flattens near the base, offering a preview of the vast eastern Sierra. Morning to early afternoon is ideal for climbing, as the southwest-facing wall captures sun but remains shaded enough to stay cool, especially during summer months. Late fall and spring provide excellent weather windows with stable temperatures and lighter crowds.
Whether stepping onto the granite for the first time or adding a reliable line to your book, Living the Dream delivers straightforward climbing, solid pro, and a chance to embrace the wild off-the-beaten-path character of Sierra Eastside mountaineering. Embark prepared, move deliberately, and savor the interplay of challenge and rhythm etched into this classic route.
Loose rock near the belay and traverse calls for deliberate footwork and helmet use. The single pitch nature limits exposure, but careful rope management is critical when lowering or rappelling, especially on the bolted anchor.
Wear a helmet as loose rock can dislodge during traverses near the anchor.
Plan for early morning starts to catch cooler temperatures and fewer climbers.
Bring double racks with emphasis on smaller cams for tricky placements.
Use directional slings when traversing to keep the rope running smoothly.
Double cams sized up to 2 inches cover most protection needs, with smaller gear up to 0.75 useful for thin sections. A bolted anchor at the top simplifies descent, but a two-rope rappel setup is recommended due to rope management challenges with a single 70m rope.
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