"Live Simply combines juggy holds and crack climbing into an accessible single-pitch adventure on McQuirks Mountain. Perfect for trad enthusiasts eager to build confidence with manageable protection and varied moves."
Live Simply offers climbers a straightforward introduction to traditional climbing with a rewarding stretch of crack climbs and juggy face holds that encourage steady movement and careful gear placement. Located at Dirt Bag Corner on McQuirks Mountain in New Brunswick, this single-pitch climb stretches 80 feet, inviting climbers to engage with a landscape that commands respect and focus. The rock presents a mix of generous holds and technical pockets, making it an accessible challenge for those ready to practice their crack skills without committing to extended multi-pitch routes. The climb’s leftward traverse near the top leads to a finish on the Wild Blue Falcon Face (WBFF), pushing you to read the rock carefully as holds and protection become sparser.
The approach to Dirt Bag Corner is uncomplicated, following forested trails that open to the granite face slowly revealing its character—the coarse texture beneath your fingers, the occasional birdcall punctuating the quiet. The climb’s protection is manageable with a single rack to 2 inches, meaning you can travel light but must place gear thoughtfully to ensure security. The bolted anchor at the summit offers a reliable top-out, removing the guesswork on descent preparations.
Expect an encounter with a face that shifts between solid, positive holds to areas demanding careful footwork and patience. The 5.6 PG13 rating underscores its moderate difficulty balanced by intermittent runouts, highlighting the need for focus rather than brute strength. This makes it ideal for climbers who want to expand their trad repertoire while experiencing the rugged charm of McQuirks Mountain.
Timing your climb is best during late spring through early fall when the weather stabilizes, and the rock dries quickly after rain. Morning or late afternoon provides comfortable temperature windows as the wall gently tilts east, catching sun as it rises without baking climbers under harsh midday heat. Beginners will appreciate the clarity of the moves, and the varied holds keep even seasoned adventurers alert.
Local tips emphasize hydration due to the exposed nature of the approach trail, solid shoes with good edging for the subtle footholds, and a keen eye on weather patterns as sudden fog can reduce visibility. Always double-check your anchor and gear placements; those pockets near the finish require well-thought protection to avoid surprises on the final moves.
Live Simply is more than a climb; it’s a place to test your skills, trust your instincts, and engage directly with a part of the Canadian climbing scene that offers both ease and challenge in measured balance.
While the climb is moderate, the upper left traverse leads into a section with fewer holds and marginal gear placements. Pay close attention to anchor security and avoid complacency near these runouts. The rock is generally solid but can feel slick when wet, so avoid climbing after rain or in foggy conditions.
Bring steady footwear with confident edging ability for subtle footholds.
Hydrate well—approach trail is exposed with limited shade during midday.
Climb in stable weather conditions; late spring to early fall is best.
Carefully assess gear placements near the upper sections to avoid long runouts.
A single rack up to 2 inches covers all necessary protection, with a bolted anchor securing the top. Pack light but place gear meticulously, especially on the upper left traverse where holds and placements thin out.
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