HomeClimbingLittle Yellow F**ker

Little Yellow F**ker

Ottawa, Canada
trad crack
short pitch
exposed scramble
crux unprotected
granite face
Gatineau Park
Length: 15 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Little Yellow F**ker
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Little Yellow F**ker is a short but intense trad climb on Gatineau Park’s Home Cliff, offering a nerve-testing crux and a high-stakes finish above an exposed scramble. This route demands confidence and precise gear placement for a secure ascent."

Little Yellow F**ker

Perched on the Main Corner of Home Cliff in Gatineau Park, Little Yellow F**ker offers a bold, compact trad climb that demands both mental focus and steady technique. This single-pitch 15-foot ascent is a brief but intense confrontation with exposed rock, starting with a sharp face climb to the right of the more commonly traveled Broken Corner route. From the first move, the route challenges you to commit; the crux presents an unprotected section that tests your nerve and balance against the raw, unforgiving granite.

The rock beneath your fingers is rough and grainy, its texture biting into your skin as you search for tiny holds. The air around feels crisp and alive, while the forested ridge below hums quietly with distant bird calls. Directly above, the wall waits, nearly vertical and unforgiving, daring you to push upward without hesitation. When you reach the crux, there’s no room for error—a fall here isn’t just a slip; it means a dangerous drop onto the fourth-class scramble you used to reach the base.

After pushing through the crux, relief washes over as you move toward a crack system near the top, where you can finally place some gear and regain security. The physical challenge gives way to a tactile connection with the rock, a moment to reset your breathing and savor the accomplishment. The exposure is tangible, the landscape stretching outward with quiet majesty beneath you.

Little Yellow F**ker is a short route, but don’t let its length fool you. Its character demands precise protection management—standard rack essentials will suffice, but the placement opportunities require careful judgment. The approach to the climb is a four-class scramble that adds a layer of commitment and approach caution, emphasizing the need to be confident or have reliable spotters on hand.

Whether you're stepping onto this face to sharpen your trad skills or pushing through a mental barrier, this route delivers a memorable pitch where concentration and control come first. Gatineau Park’s striking granite and quiet wilderness provide the perfect backdrop, combining accessible adventure with a real edge of risk. Plan your day around dry conditions and clear weather, as the rock’s grip is essential, and loose or wet holds could turn a bold move into a risky fall.

Bring sturdy footwear capable of slick granite, hydrate before the approach, and consider the timing to avoid afternoon rains common in the region. The route’s south-facing wall welcomes morning light, making early ascents easier on both vision and temperature. After sending, descend carefully down the scramble, respecting both the rock and your own limits.

Little Yellow F**ker isn’t a route for beginners or the faint-hearted, but for those ready to embrace its challenge, it offers a concentrated taste of Gatineau’s wild spirit—a raw, rewarding climbing moment packed into just 15 feet of granite defiance.

Climber Safety

The most critical safety concern is the unprotected crux positioned directly above a precarious fourth-class scramble. Falling here could lead to a dangerous drop and injury. Climbers should be confident in their moves and consider having spotters assist for added security.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length15 feet

Local Tips

Start early to benefit from morning sun and dry rock.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber suited for slick granite.

Hydrate well before the approach scramble to maintain focus.

Bring a partner to spot at the crux due to exposure risk.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 X
Quality
Consensus:Though listed at 5.9 X, the grade feels stiff because the crux lacks protection and carries serious risk. The unprotected moves test mental composure more than pure strength, setting this apart from other 5.9 climbs in the park that are more forgiving. The X rating is a clear warning that a fall here brings consequences far beyond typical yardstick difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Prepare a standard trad rack emphasizing small to medium cams and nuts. Focus on solid placements near the crack top-offs, as the crux section lacks protection and demands confident climbing.

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Tags

trad crack
short pitch
exposed scramble
crux unprotected
granite face
Gatineau Park