"Little Wing challenges climbers with 50 feet of technical face climbing, mixing precision bolts and delicate holds. This route offers a sharp taste of the Ironclads sector’s character, blending focused moves with a rugged foothill setting just below Rusted Razor."
Perched just below the more imposing Rusted Razor, Little Wing offers a compact but engaging challenge for climbers with a taste for technical face climbing on mixed protection. The climb begins from a sturdy ledge jutting over a rugged gully, setting the stage for a direct ascent up a smooth, steep face. Three bolts punctuate the route, providing key protection points while demanding precise, calculated moves between holds that are often small and delicate. The initial bolt hangs somewhat high, requiring a committed clip that tests both reach and nerve, signaling the controlled intensity awaiting above.
From this anchor, the face continues upward with a compelling sequence that blends friction and balance. The final bolt presents a critical decision point: veer leftward to dodge the crux and tackle an 8+ difficulty or push straight up into a 10b crux, where commitment and finger strength become paramount. Though the climb measures just 50 feet, the quality lies in its focused, thoughtful movement rather than length.
Setting up a secure top anchor demands some foresight—anchors require attention and possibly supplemental gear, as the original hardware has had maintenance issues in the past. A thorough pre-climb check here is essential to ensure a safe and smooth descent or belay.
Beyond the technical details, the climb benefits from a quiet foothill location within the larger Quartz Garden area, offering a rugged mountain atmosphere framed by high-elevation pines and open northern Colorado skies. The rock’s texture and the exposed position provide tactile feedback and visual clarity, making every move feel immediate and earned. For climbers prepared to navigate its short but exacting challenge, Little Wing is a rewarding introduction to the Ironclads sector, blending the thrill of delicate face climbing with practical gear considerations and a beautiful alpine backdrop.
Top anchor bolts have had maintenance issues—rigorous hardware inspection before climbing is critical. The exposed ledge and steep gully below call for extra caution during both ascent and belay transitions.
Inspect the top anchor hardware before ascent; it may require additional gear for a safe belay.
The first bolt is high and requires careful clipping—expect a commit move here.
Consider escaping left at the last bolt to avoid the 10b crux if looking for a safer finish.
Approach is short but steep; wear grippy shoes for the smooth rock and bring chalk for finger holds.
Four bolts lead up to a two-bolt anchor, with a steep face protected by three bolts before reaching a final decision point. Be prepared with extra gear to back up the anchor, especially inspecting current hardware condition for safety.
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