"Little Richard Sporter is a compact trad climb with two engaging pitches on Colorado’s Upper Midlife Wall. Offering solid crack placements and a bouldery crux squeeze, this route presents an accessible but technical climb amid the rugged terrain of Poudre Canyon."
Little Richard Sporter stands as a focused trad climb carved into the Upper Midlife Wall in Colorado’s Poudre Canyon. This route invites climbers to engage with a compact but dynamic sequence of moves across granite that demands both technique and steady confidence. Beginning on the first three bolts of the neighboring route Over the Hillary, the climb quickly shifts left into a hand crack traverse that leads up a tight mini-dihedral to a fallen log perched along the rock face. This initial section encourages careful footwork and measured placements, with the rock underfoot alerting you to commit and trust your holds.
From the log, the route skirts along a rock traverse heading left to a slanting crack that forms a natural mini-headwall. This spot is an excellent place to establish a belay; the rock here is solid with ample crack features to build a secure anchor. There’s a chance to reach the ground on the other side of the rock 'hump,' potentially offering a comfortable rest if needed. The position also allows a moment to absorb views of the surrounding canyon, while focusing on the next move.
The second pitch climbs diagonally, pushing into a bouldery crux move that tests power and balance. This leads into a tight horizontal squeeze, a puzzle of body positioning under pressure, followed by a final hand crack mantel that climbs out at 5.6 difficulty to the top of the buttress. The crack at the end provides dependable holds for a well-earned mantle onto the summit ledge. From here, building an anchor is straightforward, allowing for safe rappels or a comfortable break to appreciate the rugged canyon environment.
Descending requires traversing right along the ridge for a short stretch before downclimbing south. Although some ledges once littered with loose rock have been cleared, occasional choss remains, so careful foot placement and routing remain essential to avoid dislodging debris. Regular ascents will likely clean this descent further, enhancing safety.
Set in a spot accessible from Fort Collins yet remote enough to feel off the beaten path, Little Richard Sporter caters to trad climbers looking for a concise, engaging outing. The rack needed is a standard trad set up to four inches, with RPs recommended for tricky placements. The climb’s moderate rating of 5.8 holds a balanced feel, with the crux on the second pitch providing a solid challenge without being overbearing.
Climbers should prepare for the approach through Upper Midlife Wall’s narrow corridors, with the rock’s character shifting from bolts to natural cracks that demand route-finding skills and steady pro. This route shines when timed on clear days when the sun warms the granite but avoids peak heat, making spring through early fall the ideal window. Little Richard Sporter rewards those who arrive prepared—equipped with solid trad gear, steady footwork, and an appetite for tight cracks and technical movement—offering a satisfying adventure that grows more polished with each repeat.
Some ledges on the descent contain loose rock despite recent cleanings—careful foot placement is essential to avoid rockfall. The mini-headwall belay requires secure anchor building on slanting cracks, so double-check placements and maintain clear communication with your partner.
Start climbing from the first three bolts of Over the Hillary for easy access to the traverse.
Set a comfortable belay on the mini-headwall’s slanting crack to break up the pitch.
Expect a bouldery crux on pitch two requiring precise footwork during the horizontal squeeze.
Descend carefully via ridge walk and downclimb south, watching for loose rock on the ledges.
A standard trad rack reaching up to 4 inches is necessary to protect the varied crack sizes encountered; RPs provide valuable additional protection, especially on the tricky sections toward the mini-headwall belay spot.
Estes Park
Estes Park
Estes Park
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