HomeClimbingLittle Red Rooster

Little Red Rooster: A Compact Trad Challenge in Thunder Bay

Thunder Bay, Canada
finger crack
roof traverse
short pitch
technical
trad gear required
2 bolt anchor
Length: 23 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Little Red Rooster
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Little Red Rooster presents a sharp finger crack and dynamic roof traverse in a concise 23-foot trad climb within Thunder Bay’s rugged north. Ideal for climbers sharpening crack technique, it blends precise protection with technical moves in a brief but engaging package."

Little Red Rooster: A Compact Trad Challenge in Thunder Bay

Little Red Rooster offers a focused burst of trad climbing adventure in the heart of Ontario's Thunder Bay region. This route demands attention to precise footwork and careful gear placement as it ascends a tight finger crack tucked into a sharp corner. Early on, the climb tests your technique with this constricted groove before opening to a roof that requires a confident right step to dodge the overhang. Beyond the roof, the wall smooths out, pushing climbers to maintain steady momentum along the headwall to the top. The line is short but intense, covering just 23 feet of vertical rock, yet it packs a nuanced sequence within that distance, blending technical crack climbing with subtle face moves.

Set on a single pitch, the route finishes at a solid 2-bolt anchor, providing a safe and straightforward top-out. The rock feels crisp under hand and foot, and while the protection points are minimal, well-chosen gear placements are possible along the finger crack section. Climbers should be prepared for a modest but meaningful workout that combines strength and finesse in equal measure.

Approaching Little Red Rooster situates you in a quieter bouldering and rock climbing pocket of the Thunder Bay region, where forested access trails lead through crisp undergrowth to rocky outcrops. The air carries a fresh chill typical of the northern latitudes, with open skies revealing expansive horizons. Afternoon sunlight cuts diagonally across the wall, making early to mid-day climbing ideal when shadows soften and handholds warm.

Given the route’s 5.9 rating, it serves climbers stepping into mid-level trad challenges or those looking for a brief, well-protected lead to sharpen crack skills. The climb’s brevity means it fits perfectly into a packed day of exploring nearby lines or bouldering in the surrounding zones. Bring finger tape and a tactical rack focused on small cams to match the delicate crack sizes, and expect the occasional need for body positioning finesse to navigate around the roof.

Conservation-wise, this area rewards careful climbers who adhere to Leave No Trace principles. The natural granite bears the marks of generations of hands but remains inviting for new adventurers seeking a crisp trad route with character. The top anchor's bolts stand firm, but the climb itself encourages placing your own pro thoughtfully, building trust in your rack and your approach.

Little Red Rooster captures the essence of an accessible, technical climb where brevity and challenge condense into a feature-rich experience that feels larger than its 23-foot height. For those ready to engage finger crack mechanics in a cool, northern Ontario environment, this route promises a worthwhile visit with both sensory and strategic rewards.

Climber Safety

Watch your gear placements in the finger crack—it’s narrow and unforgiving, so ensure pro is well seated before committing to the roof step. The roof area is exposed but protected by a careful clip sequence into a two-bolt anchor; stay aware of your footing to prevent slips above the overhang.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length23 feet

Local Tips

Arrive early to catch softer light and avoid the afternoon chill.

Tape your fingers to protect against the tight finger crack abrasiveness.

Pack a compact rack with micro cams and nuts for clean placements.

Scout the roof area carefully to plan the right-step traverse safely.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating holds true to its technical demands rather than raw power; the finger crack requires precise jamming technique, and the crux lies in negotiating the roof’s traverse smoothly. It’s a solid mid-grade climb with a straightforward rating, comparable to similar trad lines found around Ontario’s granite edges.

Gear Requirements

A modest trad rack focused on small cams and finger-sized protection fits the route’s narrow crack. The fixed 2-bolt anchor secures the top of the pitch, allowing safe top-outs or belay transitions.

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Tags

finger crack
roof traverse
short pitch
technical
trad gear required
2 bolt anchor