Little Red Book stands as the gateway climb on the east face of Raven Rocks, California, offering a compact yet satisfying route that balances technical moves with a clear line. This single-pitch, 80-foot sport climb takes you along a sequence of bolts that frame a striking left-facing red corner—a feature that demands both precision and commitment. The climb begins in a shallow, right-facing corner, where holds invite you into a rhythm of controlled movement. As you ascend, the corner gradually shifts leftward, guiding you to a series of four well-spaced bolts that protect the steeper red buttress, placing an emphasis on carefully measured footwork and confident clipping.

Set against the rugged backdrop of Box Canyon East, Little Red Book exposes climbers to open desert air and sun-drenched granite that hardens by midday. The route’s 5.10a rating reflects a climb that rewards preparation: technical proficiency with moderate endurance for the crux within the red corner. Climbers should anticipate textured rock with spotty chalk marks, highlighting where those before you found purchase, but the route’s protection remains generous through its eight fixed bolts and a secure chain anchor, reassuring those newer to sustained 5.10 challenges.

Approaching the climb involves a brief, straightforward hike from New Jack City parking — expect a 10 to 15 minute walk over sandy terrain and sparse brush. The ascent itself offers clear views across the High Desert landscape, a visual reminder of the isolation and wild character of this section of the California desert. While the wall basks in sunlight during the afternoon, early morning attempts find cooler, shaded rock, making it ideal for warmer seasons.

Local beta emphasizes prepping with sticky shoes and bringing quickdraws that match the bolt spacing to maintain fluid movement. Hydration is key here — the desert environment can drain reserves quickly, and there are no reliable water sources nearby. Planning climbs during spring or fall balances temperature and crowd factors, as summer’s heat and winter’s chill both add layers of complexity to the experience.

Little Red Book is an excellent introduction to the East Face’s collection of sport climbs, appealing to climbers eager to engage directly with exposed corner climbing without the commitment of multiple pitches. Its blend of steady protection, readable holds, and the embrace of desert light makes it a route well worth accrediting on your Californian climbing itinerary.