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Little Murders: A Classic 5.9 Crack Climb in the Flatirons

Boulder, Colorado United States
thin crack
off-width
small cams
single pitch
Flatirons
trad
Colorado
moderate approach
summer morning
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Little Murders
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Little Murders is a focused 5.9 trad climb set in the Flatirons of Boulder, combining a thin bulging crack and an off-width section that challenges gear placement and crack technique. Perfect for climbers ready to sharpen their trad skills in an iconic Colorado spot."

Little Murders: A Classic 5.9 Crack Climb in the Flatirons

Rising along the worn faces of the South Flatirons near Boulder, Colorado, Little Murders offers a compact but memorable single-pitch climb that demands both finesse and thoughtful protection. The route starts just below the cleft separating the upper and lower sections of the formation, drawn to a bulging thin crack that challenges your ability to read sloping holds and manage precise footwork. Early placements rely on small cams — think #4 BD equivalents and tiny stoppers — with a technical crux that forces steady hands and confident movements. Beyond this, the terrain eases, leading you into a series of cracks and corners framed by an awkward bulge trending right, before opening into an off-width-style crack that climbs comfortably, yet never quite conventionally. Instead of committing fully to the off-width chimney technique, climbers use jugs and jams, employing long slings to protect smaller gear placements in the fist-sized crack.

The approach to Little Murders itself requires consideration: beginning at the base of Maiden, climbers traverse from above to avoid aggressive thickets of raspberries, nettles, and sticky burrs that proliferate near the base. This indirect route preserves gear and skin alike, guiding you to a tree belay on Maiden’s North Face, where the crossing starts.

Protection is straightforward but demands a rack equipped for crack climbing, with an emphasis on cams sized from tiny to 3 inches. Although wider gear placements are possible, experience shows they rarely shorten runouts meaningfully. Many climbers find that smaller gear, combined with a generous supply of slings to manage rope drag around corners, creates the safest scenario.

For those seeking an accessible yet technically satisfying crack climb just outside Boulder, Little Murders delivers a solid 5.9 experience. The rock holds the story of years of weather and use—finger jams slip comfortably into the cracks while feet find purchase on rough edges, and the crisp air at this elevation sharpens focus. It’s a route where careful gear choices and awareness of route-finding enhance flow and safety, making it an excellent test for intermediate trad climbers eager to hone their crack skills in a stunning mountain setting.

Little Murders sits within the wider climbing zone of the Flatirons, known for its soaring sandstone slabs and distinct features that capture every ounce of a climber’s technique. The area’s moderate approach trails and well-established parking make it a favored day destination. Ideal climbing times lean towards spring, fall, and cooler summer mornings before surface temperatures rise. Descending is straightforward via a single rappel or a cautious walk off the base, depending on conditions and party preference.

This climb rewards those who balance adventure with prudence, who respect the sharp edges beneath and the natural defenses alongside the approach. Every jam and placement is a conversation with the rock, a call to steady skill and calm composure. Little Murders is not just a climb—it’s a chance to sharpen ability framed by the rugged charm of Colorado’s Flatirons.

Climber Safety

Watch for slippery or loose rock near the bulging crack crux, and be prepared for aggressive plant growth around the base—sturdy pants and careful route-finding minimize skin irritation. Gear placements in the off-width require attention to avoid long runouts.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the Maiden and traverse from above to avoid dense nettle and thorn patches at the base.

Use long slings to reduce rope drag, especially in the off-width section.

Start early to take advantage of cooler rock temperatures and minimize exposure to afternoon sun.

Check for recent weather to avoid slippery holds in the crack, especially after rain or morning dew.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade is solid but approachable, with a crux that demands precise foot and hand placement on sloping holds. The grade feels balanced for experienced trad climbers, with no softening or unexpected spice beyond the technical off-width approach. Compared to other Flatirons routes, Little Murders sits squarely in the intermediate skill range—challenging but fair.

Gear Requirements

Carry a rack focused on small to medium cams up to 3 inches, along with plenty of slings to manage drag around corners. Stoppers and tiny cams are essential for the initial bulging crack sections.

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Tags

thin crack
off-width
small cams
single pitch
Flatirons
trad
Colorado
moderate approach
summer morning