5.6 PG13, Trad
McQuirks Mountain
Canada
"Little Moe is a clean and solid granite trad climb ascending two pitches of varied features. Its approachable 5.6 PG13 rating makes it an excellent route for climbers looking to refine trad skills in a scenic New Brunswick setting."
Little Moe stands out on Moe Wall as a sharp, direct trad climb that invites climbers into an engaging dance with solid granite. This 165-foot route unfolds over two pitches of varied terrain, where every move centers on thoughtful footwork and precise gear placement. The rock itself is tough and clean, offering dependable friction that builds confidence with every inch gained. Climbers will encounter distinctive granite features that challenge balance and technique without overwhelming difficulty, making it an ideal choice for those easing into traditional climbing or seeking a refreshing moderate experience.
Starting from the base of Moe Wall, the approach offers a straightforward access with moderate vegetation and stable footing, allowing you to focus your energy on the ascent ahead. The climb’s rating of 5.6 PG13 reflects a route with straightforward technical demands but deserving of respect for its potential runouts. Protection consists mainly of a single rack up to 3 inches, with a bolted anchor at the first belay station providing a solid security point. This mix of natural gear and fixed anchors means climbers can approach the climb with a measured risk tolerance, emphasizing careful placement and route reading.
The first pitch leads upward through clean granite streaked with cracks and flakes, encouraging a rhythm of placements and balanced moves. The second pitch continues this pattern but introduces more thoughtful movement over slightly steeper sections, rewarding climbers with subtle variations in texture and shape. These features, while unpretentious, provide the route’s unique character and keep climbers engaged without feeling overwhelmed.
The surrounding wilderness, situated in the McQuirks Mountain area of New Brunswick, offers a quiet, unassuming backdrop. The rock’s rugged edges and the wall’s quiet presence invite a contemplative focus, grounding climbers with the earth beneath their hands. The area's latitude offers a good mid-spring to early fall climbing window, while weather can quickly alter conditions, so timing and preparation remain key.
Gear recommendations center around a solid standard trad rack, emphasizing the reliability of placements in varied cracks. Sturdier climbing shoes with solid edging capability will help navigate the granitoid terrain, where small smears and precise footholds are often essential. Hydration is critical due to limited shade on the face, and climbers should plan their ascent to avoid the mid-day sun, capitalizing on the cooler morning or late afternoon light.
Local advice encourages climbers to double-check fixed anchors before trust falls, watch for loose flakes early in the season, and respect the natural environment by packing out all gear and waste. With its approachable difficulty and reliable rock quality, Little Moe offers a welcome chance to connect with New Brunswick’s granite charm—a route that tests fundamentals and delivers genuine rewards.
While the rock is generally sound, some sections include small loose flakes that may shift early in the season. The bolted anchor at the first belay is trustworthy but always verify before committing. Be mindful of the moderate runout potential and plan protection placements accordingly.
Start early to avoid the midday sun on Moe Wall’s exposed granite.
Confirm the integrity of fixed anchors before trusting them.
Watch for loose flakes during spring; choose dry days to climb.
Pack out all gear and trash to protect the route’s natural setting.
A single rack up to 3 inches is sufficient, with a bolted anchor at the first belay offering a secure stopping point. Solid placements dominate, but bring a full set of cams to cover the range smoothly.
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