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Little Feat at Pixie Corner Smoke Bluffs

Squamish, Canada
blunt arete
granite
single pitch
trad gear
technical moves
smoke bluffs
squamish
Length: 45 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Little Feat
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Little Feat offers a compact, technical trad challenge on Smoke Bluffs’ blunt arete. Blending smooth granite moves with thoughtful protection, it’s a focused pitch perfect for climbers honing their gear skills within easy reach of Squamish."

Little Feat at Pixie Corner Smoke Bluffs

Rising sharply from the weathered granite of Smoke Bluffs, Little Feat offers climbers a concise but sharply focused experience that demands precision and a steady hand. This route carves a clean line up the blunt arete just left of the more frequented Digital Dexterity, bypassing the fractured diagonal break that drifts toward the adjacent climb. The granite here is firm and forgiving, with stretches of solid holds interspersed with subtle bulges that test technique rather than brute strength. At just one pitch and 45 feet in length, Little Feat is an ideal challenge for climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills on moderate terrain punctuated by a crux at the steepest section.

Approaching Pixie Corner, the forested trails gently frame your path with the scent of fir and cedar. The air carries the faint shimmer of the nearby Squamish River, whose restless currents seem to urge every adventurer forward. The climb’s exposure is balanced by its approachable length, making it a practical option when time is short but the craving for quality stone is high.

Protection consists mainly of a single bolt near the crux partnering with small cam placements such as TCU’s, requiring thoughtful gear selection and careful placements amid the smooth granite. This blend of fixed and removable gear demands focus, rewarding climbers comfortable with trusting their gear and movement alike. The route’s 5.10c rating is accessible to those with moderate experience, yet the concise grading masks the need for controlled footwork and steady breathing.

For those heading to Smoke Bluffs, wear sticky but supportive climbing shoes to navigate both the slabby moves and steeper bulge sections effectively. Start early to benefit from the gentle morning sun warming the rock face, as afternoon shadows deepen along the arete. Hydrate well before the approach, which skirts through shaded forest and occasionally loose gravel, giving way to a solid trail leading up to the base.

This climb sits within the expansive Smoke Bluffs area, a climbing mecca known for its striking granite formations and accessible routes. Being a public climbing reserve, it maintains a wild spirit combined with thoughtful conservation efforts. Its proximity to Squamish town ensures easy access without sacrificing the natural setting that gives each climb its pulse.

Descent is straightforward—a short scramble down a forested talus slope just behind the route returns you quickly to the Pixie Corner access trail. Keep an eye on loose rocks on the way down, and avoid descending in wet conditions to prevent slippery footing. The entire outing can be managed in a half day, making it a perfect add-on or test piece within a larger day of climbing the Bluffs.

Whether sharpening your trad gear placements or simply craving a quality single-pitch challenge with dynamic lines and quiet natural beauty, Little Feat stands ready. It strikes an appealing balance between technical demand and manageable length, set against the backdrop of one of North America's finest granite climbing areas.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock on the approach and descent paths, especially after rain. The route’s minimal fixed gear means careful gear placement is critical. Avoid climbing in wet or damp conditions to reduce slip risk on the granite slabs.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Approach early to enjoy morning sun warming the face.

Bring sticky climbing shoes for friction on slabby granite.

Hydrate well before starting; the approach features loose gravel sections.

Descend carefully via a short scramble down stable talus behind the route.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10c, Little Feat’s grade feels consistent with local Smoke Bluffs routes, offering a stiff but fair challenge. The single sustained crux near the bolt pushes the technical demands, requiring precise footwork and confident gear placements. While not overly tech-heavy, the 5.10c rating is well-earned, striking a balance between steep moves and sustained friction techniques typical of Squamish granite.

Gear Requirements

One bolt near the crux with TCU-sized cams for protection. Durable placements found on the blunt arete away from broken zones, requiring reliable small gear and steady placements.

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Tags

blunt arete
granite
single pitch
trad gear
technical moves
smoke bluffs
squamish