HomeClimbingLip Up Fatty

Lip Up Fatty: Seven Pitches on North Buttress at Tahquitz Rock

Idyllwild, California United States
crack climbing
exposed roofs
multi-pitch
North Buttress
Tahquitz Rock
small nut placements
technical descent
Length: 900 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
7
Location
Lip Up Fatty
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lip Up Fatty is a less-traveled seven-pitch trad climb on the North Buttress of Tahquitz Rock. It offers a sustained journey through cracks, flakes, and exposed roofs, rewarding those who seek solid protection with varied challenges and sweeping views."

Lip Up Fatty: Seven Pitches on North Buttress at Tahquitz Rock

Lip Up Fatty climbs the rugged north face of Tahquitz Rock, a granite giant standing tall in Southern California's Inland Empire. This demanding seven-pitch trad route challenges climbers with a mix of crack jams, flakes, and exposed roofs that push both technique and endurance. Starting from the bottom left edge of the North Buttress, the approach leads you to a distinctive "wing"-shaped flake that hooks your attention, setting the stage for a direct line upward. The granite beneath your hands is solid but varied—ranging from wide hand cracks to tighter finger jams—requiring a versatile rack and steady footwork.

Each pitch carries its own character, weaving you through sharp corners and bold roofs that test your commitment and balance. Around the midpoint, a memorable section demands navigating a crazy flake jutting dramatically out of the crack—an exposed move that rewards focus and calm. The granite here is honest, without frivolous holds; every move pushes you to engage fully with the rock's features.

Climbing Lip Up Fatty calls for a 60-meter rope to comfortably link pitches, as the lengths are generous and the protection opportunities plentiful but specific. Small nuts dominate the gear placements, with a sprinkling of medium-sized pieces to round out your rack. Protection helped along the route’s length, but you’ll need to be attentive to tricky placements, especially around the roofs where pro is less straightforward.

The setting amplifies the adventure—Tahquitz Rock, known for its historic significance and continuous climbing legacy, offers sweeping views of the desert foothills and the city lights shimmering on the horizon. The climb rarely crowds, giving you ample space to focus and absorb the surrounding landscape. Early mornings or late afternoons are ideal for tackling this climb, when the sun’s angle softens and shade cools parts of the wall.

The descent is a technical step in itself, requiring careful navigation downscrambling and established rappel stations that demand attention to rope management and belay communication. Given the route’s length and sustained nature, preparation is key: start hydrated, pack layered clothing, and bring enough water to keep your focus sharp.

Lip Up Fatty is a grit-tinged adventure for trad climbers ready to embrace a variety of crack systems and exposed sections. Its position on the seldom-traveled North Buttress means you can savor the climb in almost solitary peace—an opportunity to hone crack skills and savor both the challenge and serenity of Tahquitz’s towering granite.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose flakes near roof sections and ensure secure placements before committing to exposed moves. The descent involves rappelling and downclimbing across uneven terrain—double-check anchors and communication. Hydration is crucial as this climb is lengthy with little shade in the afternoon.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches7
Length900 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and catch the best light on the North Buttress.

Wear climbing shoes with a comfortable yet precise fit to handle crack jams and smears.

Bring extra nuts; the route favors small sizes with limited larger placements.

Familiarize yourself with rappel stations and carry a sturdy prusik or backup for the descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 PG13 rating suggests moderate difficulty but with some protection challenges that increase the seriousness. The grade feels solid with sustained crack jams and an exposed roof section acting as the route's crux. Compared to other North Buttress lines, the rating is fair, but climbers should expect some mental commitment, especially on the trickier pro placements.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full rack emphasizing plenty of small nuts and a few medium-sized pieces to handle the mostly crack-based protection. A 60-meter rope is strongly recommended for comfortably linking long pitches and managing the descent.

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Tags

crack climbing
exposed roofs
multi-pitch
North Buttress
Tahquitz Rock
small nut placements
technical descent