"Limey Peel offers a straightforward yet satisfying traditional crack climb in Cracked Canyon, blending solid, featured rock with an accessible grade. This single-pitch route is ideal for climbers honing crack techniques or those seeking a quick, engaging ascent near Telluride."
Limey Peel stands as a classic introduction to traditional crack climbing tucked into the raw natural embrace of Cracked Canyon near Telluride, Colorado. This single-pitch route ascends the canyon’s leftmost of two broad cracks, offering a rhythmic climb that blends straightforward crack moves with generous features on solid rock. The crack invites climbers to trust their technique—secure hand jams and slick feet placements guide the way upward through textured holds that reward steady movement over sheer power.
The environment surrounding Limey Peel adds its own character: towering walls rising against the high desert sky, warmed by sun-drenched surfaces and cooled by occasional breezes that hint at the nearby San Juan Mountains. The approach is brief but sets the stage with easy terrain that flows through sagebrush and sparse pines, keeping the focus tight on the climb itself.
Protection is straightforward with a double rack up to #3 Camalot recommended to guard against potential falls, as the crack offers plenty of placement opportunities but few super tight sections. The 3-bolt anchor at the top, connected by webbing, assures confident top rope setups and secure cleanups.
Climbing Limey Peel rewards both novices seeking to sharpen crack skills and experienced trad climbers hunting for a quick, satisfying line with clean rock and reliable gear. The 5.9 rating reflects a moderate challenge, one that feels approachable yet engaging with a single pitch of continuous movement.
Plan your visit in spring through fall, when the wall basks in plentiful sunlight and dry conditions keep the rock friction high. Early morning or late afternoon climbs are key for avoiding the midday heat, as the southern exposure relentlessly charges the wall with warmth. To get here, park near Ophir and follow a clear trail that leads you into Cracked Canyon’s open arms within a short 15-minute stroll. Bring sturdy shoes and a solid water supply to stay comfortable in this high-altitude desert environment.
Whether you’re prepping for longer routes across the Telluride area or just looking to dial in crack climbing fundamentals on sound rock, Limey Peel offers a grounded adventure with direct access and memorable moves. It’s a snapshot of Colorado trad climbing—clean, sharp, and uncomplicated—set against a landscape that encourages focus and reward in equal measure.
Although the protection opportunities are good, be mindful that the placements favor precision, especially where the crack widens. The bolted anchor is secure, but the ledges near the top require focus during the final moves. Seasonal rock quality is generally solid, but always watch for potential loose flakes on approach paths during wet conditions.
Start early or later in the afternoon to avoid the sun-soaked southern exposure at midday.
Wear approach shoes for the short but loose trail approach through sagebrush and light pine cover.
Check your cams carefully—while placements are plentiful, the rock requires precise gear placement for confidence.
Carry enough water to stay hydrated during the short but altitude-challenging approach.
Bring a double rack of cams up to size #3 Camalots to cover the crack adequately. Secure placements are available given the featured nature of the crack, but it’s best to carry a full rack to stay protected along all moves. The climb finishes at a bolted anchor with webbing.
Upload your photos of Limey Peel and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.