"Lightning slices through the granite of Atomic Wall with a focused 5.9 crack and face climb. Newly retrobolted but sporting a gritty edge, this single-pitch line challenges climbers to blend power and technique amid New Brunswick’s calm forest surroundings."
Lightning bolts across the rock face of Atomic Wall, bringing a crisp, focused challenge for climbers venturing into the Sunnyside sector of Welsford, New Brunswick. This single-pitch sport climb offers a clean, direct route that strings together crack and face moves over 60 feet of varied granite. Though recently retrobolted in early 2020, the route still bears the rugged fingerprints of its past, with patches of dirt reluctant to wash away. As more climbers step onto the line, expect the rock to shed its rough edges and reveal more polished holds.
The climb holds a solid 5.9 rating that demands a balance of technique and power, rewarding those comfortable with both crack jams and face climbing. The protection is straightforward — eight fixed draws offer confident clipping and minimal runout, making this a great introduction to sport climbing in the region. The granite here, textured and cool under hand, challenges grip while the occasional flakes and edges test footwork. The Atomic Wall area itself is a quiet corner of the Welsford climbing scene, attracted as much for its peaceful surroundings as its quality routes.
Approaching Lightning involves a short, well-marked trek through forested trails characteristic of New Brunswick’s lush landscape. The trail undulates gently, fragrant with pine and hints of earthiness after recent rains. Arriving at the base, you feel the steep angle of the rock, solid and raw, daring you upward.
Since this route is still earning the traffic required to fully shake off winter grime and loose debris, climbers are advised to bring a brush and prepare for some initial cleaning. It's a perfect option for those looking to sharpen their crack skills without leaving behind classic face climbing features. Timing your climb mid-morning through afternoon ensures you benefit from the best sun exposure on this east-facing wall, though in summer the warmth can build quickly, so hydration and sun protection are recommended.
With only one pitch and manageable length, Lightning is both accessible for intermediate climbers and a stepping stone for those craving a more textured experience beyond gym walls. Its location in the expansive Welsford area means that after a send, there's plenty of opportunity to explore additional routes or soak in the surrounding wilderness. From start to finish, Lightning invites you to test your balance between grit and grace, making every clip and jam count in this evolving slice of Canadian sport climbing.
Given the route’s youth and recent retrobolting, some holds may still carry residual dirt and loose flakes. Careful cleaning before the ascent will reduce slipping hazards. The approach trail is moderate but watch for wet, slippery roots in damp conditions.
Bring a climbing brush to clean holds as traffic is still increasing.
Plan your climb for mid-morning to afternoon for optimal sun exposure.
Wear high-traction shoes suitable for crack and face climbing.
Hydrate well and bring sun protection—summer sun warms the east-facing wall quickly.
Eight fixed draws are installed, providing solid protection for this sport climb. Given its recent retrobolting, some cleaning gear like a stiff brush is recommended to clear dirt and loose flakes before climbing.
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