"Lieback Route delivers a focused trad climb on a clean, right-facing dihedral just steps from Yosemite Falls. A single pitch of solid granite tests crack technique and gear placement in a setting that heightens every move with valley views and the roar of cascading water nearby."
Set against the dramatic backdrop of Yosemite Valley’s iconic walls, the Lieback Route offers a classic trad climb anchored by a striking right-facing dihedral. Just 50 feet to the right of the well-known Jamcrack, this route invites climbers into a muscular, single-pitch challenge where precise footwork and steady hands earn every move. The granite here is impeccably solid, textured with fissures that reward traditional gear placements up to three inches, demanding a keen eye for protection and an understanding of dihedral techniques.
From the base, the environment hums with the rush of nearby Yosemite Falls, its spray catching sunlight and cooling the air. Climbing the dihedral, you become part of the valley’s grand vertical drama, each lieback and foot jam connecting you to this living rock face. The exposure is honest, but manageable, lending a confidence to the ascent without diminishing the thrill. The climb covers approximately 50 feet and is typically approached in one powerful pitch, making it accessible for climbers looking to sharpen their crack skills without committing to multi-pitch logistics.
Approach to the route is straightforward, beginning at Sunnyside Bench, a high-traffic area that serves as a gateway to many walls on the valley’s north side. The trail is well-trodden but requires attention to local regulations and timing to avoid conflicts with peak visitor times. Morning light hits the dihedral beautifully, with the wall warming up quickly under the sun, making early starts ideal, particularly in cooler seasons.
Gear preparation is key here: bring cams well-suited for vertical fissures ranging from finger to hand size, with an emphasis on placements around three inches. A traditional rack with a solid range of nuts and cams will keep you safe and confident. While the route grades at 5.8—a moderate challenge—it carries a sense of commitment in this desert of granite, where the rock demands respect and precision.
As you summit, the view unfolds into the heart of Yosemite Valley, offering both reward and grounding. Descend by carefully downclimbing the same path or retreating to nearby walk-off options, mindful of slick granite edges. The area’s natural cadence calls for focus and flow, balancing adventure and attention in equal measure.
Whether you’re honing skills for longer, more complex routes or seeking a reliable, engaging climb amidst some of California’s most breathtaking terrain, the Lieback Route provides a measured challenge infused with Yosemite’s unique energy and expansive beauty.
Granite can be unforgiving if approached rushed; verify all gear placements are solid and double-check anchors on the descent. Also, be wary of slick patches near waterfall spray, especially in cooler months.
Start early to catch morning sun warming the wall and escape afternoon crowds.
Ensure cams fit securely in the dihedral—placements require precision and patience.
Check weather forecasts to avoid wet granite conditions which can be slippery.
Respect National Park regulations; pack out all gear tape and trash.
Traditional gear is essential here, with protection placements up to 3 inches. Bring a comprehensive rack focused on camming devices suited for dihedrals, complemented by nuts for smaller edges.
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