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Lichenstein Trad Climb in Thunder Bay's Pass Lake Area

Thunder Bay, Ontario Canada
wide crack
ledges
single pitch
beginner trad
top bolted anchor
Ontario climbing
Length: 39 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lichenstein
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lichenstein presents a clean, approachable trad climb in Thunder Bay’s Pass Lake region. Its inviting wide crack and expansive ledge provide a solid introduction to gear placements with a straightforward single pitch of 39 feet."

Lichenstein Trad Climb in Thunder Bay's Pass Lake Area

Lichenstein offers a straightforward yet engaging introduction to trad climbing in Ontario’s Thunder Bay region. Situated just left of a solitary tree guarding a massive, flat boulder at the base, this short route weaves up an inviting wide crack that beckons climbers to test their gear placement skills. From the start, the climb guides you right before shifting left with confident moves that lead to an expansive ledge halfway up—a perfect stage to pause, regroup, and plan your finish. The rock’s surface is solid with enough variation to keep your fingers searching and feet balanced. The final push is a step to the right, where you navigate smaller holds toward a pair of bolted anchors waiting patiently at the top.

The route is modest in length at 39 feet, ideal for those venturing into traditional climbing or seeking a quick route to hone crack climbing techniques. The approach to this granite rise is unpretentious: a short walk through mixed forest that grips the thick, earthy scent of pine and damp stone underfoot. The surrounding landscape is quiet, punctuated only by the rustle of leaves and distant bird calls, creating a focused atmosphere where the rock’s voice comes through clear and undisturbed.

Given its single pitch, Lichenstein encourages precision: your placements must be thoughtful and your movement deliberate. The protection consists of two bolted anchors at the top, making it a safe retreat once the climb is complete. Plan your climb during daylight’s firm grip, as the east-facing wall catches morning sun, warming the rock and drying dew quickly. Afternoons bring deeper shade, offering cooler relief during warmer months.

For gear, bring a standard rack suited for crack systems, with stoppers and cams sized for wide cracks. The climb's protection is straightforward but demands attention to the adaptability of your placements. Shoes with sticky rubber and a comfortable fit will support delicate edging and crack jams alike. Hydrate before the approach, as the brief trail offers few opportunities to refill or rest beyond the ledge itself.

Whether you are stepping onto your first trad line or adding a reliable classic to your catalog, Lichenstein offers a crisp climb that engages without overwhelming. Its simplicity is its strength—a brush with nature’s firm and steady challenges in one of Ontario’s quieter climbing pockets.

Climber Safety

Although protection is straightforward with fixed top anchors, the route requires careful gear placement on the crack system to avoid long falls. The ledge near the route’s midpoint is generous but watch footing as the step-right finish demands steady balance.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length39 feet

Local Tips

Start just left of the lone tree at the base for the widest crack access.

The route sunbathes in morning light, making early climbs warmer and drier.

Use shoes with good edging capability to navigate the ledge step comfortably.

Bring water and snacks as the short approach offers no resupply spots.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:At 5.6, Lichenstein feels comfortably accessible but demands attention to crack technique and solid gear placement. While this grade is on the easier side of traditional routes, the wide crack and ledge step present a hands-on challenge without overcomplicating the climb. Compared to other local Thunder Bay routes, it aligns well with beginner to intermediate trad climbs, making it a great confidence-builder.

Gear Requirements

Essential rack includes cams and stoppers designed for wide crack placements. Top anchors are fixed with two bolts, facilitating a secure belay or rappel.

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Tags

wide crack
ledges
single pitch
beginner trad
top bolted anchor
Ontario climbing