HomeClimbingLichen or Not

Lichen or Not: A Precise Hand Crack Adventure on Squat Rock

Denver, Colorado United States
hand crack
slab moves
bolt protected
short pitch
tree anchor
South Platte
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lichen or Not
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lichen or Not delivers a focused trad climb on Squat Rock’s vertical buttress, featuring a clean hand crack and challenging slab moves. Perfect for those seeking precise jam technique and a compact adventure in the South Platte region."

Lichen or Not: A Precise Hand Crack Adventure on Squat Rock

Lichen or Not offers a concentrated taste of classic Colorado trad climbing, anchored on a compact vertical buttress in the Pine Area of South Platte. This route invites climbers into a raw, tactile experience dominated by a near-perfect hand crack that demands both finesse and commitment. The climb begins with an approach along the well-worn trail to Squat Rock, threading through a cluster of large boulders that guard the base. As you step closer, your eyes lock with a featureful line rising just left of Squat Rock’s summit, where a blocky offwidth crack marks an adjacent 5.10 challenge.

The climb’s opening moves test your hand jam technique, with a thin-hands crux that rewards precision and steady composure. The vertical pitch holds a focused intensity before easing onto slabby ground where route-finding and balance come into play. A single quickdraw protects a key bolt placed before a 5.8 slab section, shifting the climbing style from crack jams to delicate smears. The final stretch climbs a 20-foot 5.6 slab where friction and body position take over as you push toward the anchor.

This short but engaging climb shines for those who appreciate routes that emphasize technique and mental control over sheer power. The single pitch, moderate length, and compact nature make it a great choice for a focused session, either as a warm-up or a standalone route to hone crack skills. The surrounding Pine Area lends an open, airy feel to the experience with rugged granite underfoot and sun-dappled approaches.

Approaching Lichen or Not requires navigating a few large boulders at the rock base, an element that adds variety before the actual climb. Once on the route, standard hand-size gear covers most placements; however, an extra #2 Camalot or 2.5 Friend is advisable to handle any tricky spots. A single bolt offers key protection before the slab, but most of the protection comes from natural placements. Anchoring at the top utilizes a strong tree with slings, solidifying the safety apparatus.

Descending demands careful attention. A 60-meter single-rope rappel returns you to the base, but caution is critical when pulling the rope to avoid it catching in the left gully below the climb. This small detail can prevent a frustrating and time-consuming extraction. The approach and descent together frame the climb with manageable logistics, making this an accessible highlight within the South Platte climbing zone.

Whether you’re sharpening your trad skills or seeking a concise challenge with sound protection, Lichen or Not invites you to engage with the rock’s natural rhythm. It’s a climb that mixes technical hand jams, subtle slab moves, and straightforward descent, offering a well-rounded day out where every hold and foot placement demands focused intention.

Climber Safety

Be very careful during the rappel; the rope can easily get stuck in the gully left of the route's base if not pulled smoothly. Slab sections can become dangerously slick if they get wet or damp, so only climb in dry conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach by hiking to Squat Rock, aiming for a point just left of the summit and near the tree down-left of the top.

Watch your footing near the base boulders to conserve energy before the climb.

Exercise caution when pulling ropes at the top to avoid snagging in the adjacent gully on the climber's left.

Ideal climbing in dry weather; slabs get slick when damp or wet.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Lichen or Not offers a solid moderate challenge that feels approachable yet technical. The hand crack demands steady jams, while the thin-hands crux adds a slight challenge without being overpowering. The slab moves introduce a change of pace and require balance rather than raw strength. Compared to other 5.9s in South Platte, this route feels straightforward but requires focused technique, making it ideal for climbers refining crack skills.

Gear Requirements

Bring a light standard trad rack weighted toward hand-sized pieces, and consider carrying an extra #2 Camalot or 2.5 Friend for tricky placements. One quickdraw is needed for the bolt protection before the slab section. The anchor anchors on a tree with slings.

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Tags

hand crack
slab moves
bolt protected
short pitch
tree anchor
South Platte