"Lichen in My Cleavage is a concise, left-trending sport route on Quadra Island’s Keystone Crag. It offers well-spaced bolts, ample ledges for rest, and a thin, technical top section, perfect for climbers looking to refine their crack skills in a serene coastal setting."
Lichen in My Cleavage offers a refreshing blend of technical movement and rest-rich sequences on the rugged west side of Keystone Crag. This compact, 53-foot route threads a gently leftward path up the disjointed crack system, inviting climbers to engage both hand jams and delicate footwork. The climb’s ledges act like natural pit stops, easing pump and giving a chance to recalibrate breathing and strategy. As the crack starts wide and inviting, it fractures into thinner seams near the top, challenging you with a precise finish that demands controllers' finesse. Along the ascent, the rock’s texture shifts subtly, giving the holds a living feel, almost as if the lichen itself tests your grip. The climb is protected by five well-spaced bolts, ensuring security while preserving the line’s integrity, capped with an accessible rappel ring anchor for a smooth descent. Approach involves a short, straightforward trek through forested trails of Quadra Island’s rugged coastline, where the scent of cedar and salt air mingle. Ideal for sport climbers seeking a single-pitch adventure that balances technique with an inviting atmosphere, this climb is approachable yet engaging for those stepping up from the 5.8 range. While protection is solid, the route’s more technical sections near the top reward precise foot placement and steady mental focus. Quadra Island’s natural setting adds an extra layer of quiet contemplation as ocean breezes thread through the trees, reminding you that each move here connects you to an ecosystem stubborn and enduring. When planning your day, arrive early to enjoy cooler shade on the crag and pack footwear suited for sticky friction, alongside a light rack for the bolts and anchors. This climb presents a snapshot of west coast climbing — unpretentious, dynamic, and intimately tied to the land beneath your fingers.
While protection is solid with well-spaced bolts, some ledges rest spots are narrow—maintain good clipping discipline and avoid swinging falls. Be cautious descending via the rappel ring; double-check your setup and anchor for safety.
Start early to climb in cooler morning shade on the west-facing wall.
Wear sticky-soled shoes as the top thin crack demands precise foot placements.
Hydrate well before the climb; rest ledges help, but the upper crux requires mental clarity.
The approach trail is short but rocky—trail shoes recommended for the hike in.
Bring a light sport rack to clip the five bolts easily and a top rope setup for safe practice or guiding. The anchor is equipped with a rappel ring making descent straightforward.
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