HomeClimbingL’hiver des Indiens

L’hiver des Indiens: A Direct Trad Challenge in Quebec’s Laurentians

Saint-Adolphe-d'Howard, Quebec Canada
offwidth
crack climbing
single pitch
exposed finish
glue-in protection
Laurentians
Length: 65 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
L’hiver des Indiens
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"L’hiver des Indiens offers a focused trad climb in Quebec’s Laurentians, blending crack technique with a measured push through a challenging offwidth section. A single-pitch gem, it invites climbers to balance jamming finesse with mental steadiness on exposed moves."

L’hiver des Indiens: A Direct Trad Challenge in Quebec’s Laurentians

L’hiver des Indiens offers a compact but rewarding trad climb that demands both commitment and versatility. Located high in the Laurentians near Lac Gervais, this 65-foot route belongs to the same approach corridor as the nearby Diligente Indigène but quickly asserts its own character with a distinct crack system. The climb begins with a confident move as you step off the familiar path for Diligente Indigène, heading toward a second glue-in bolt. Here, the route takes a bold turn to the right at the base of a pronounced offwidth crack that stretches 15 to 30 centimeters wide over roughly six meters.

This offwidth section tests your crack climbing skills, presenting classic jams and chicken wings or an alternative lie-back sequence. For those equipped with cams or big bros, protection options extend comfortably across this wide crack. Without these, the two glue-in bolts provide critical security. As you push beyond the offwidth, the crack narrows, demanding tighter placements and careful footwork. The climb concludes with a slightly exposed exit to the left, requiring steady nerves and controlled movement.

This route rewards climbers who appreciate trad challenges that combine crack climbing technique with manageable exposure. The granite here calls for solid gear placement judgment, with a recommended rack including cams sized around the offwidth range to secure your ascent. The anchor consists of glue-in bolts, easing the belay setup and descent.

Approach leads you through scenic forest trails from the Lac Gervais area, winding through quiet sections of the Laurentians. Expect moderate elevation gain and well-marked paths that take about 30 minutes from the parking zone. Along the way, a crisp woodland scent mixes with the sounds of distant bird calls, grounding you before the vertical push.

Plan your climb during late spring through early fall for the most stable weather and dry rock conditions. Morning to midday climbs benefit from partial sun exposure, which warms the rock without baking it, ideal for maintaining friction in cooler temperatures. Gear up with sturdy shoes that provide grip on slabby granite transitions, and be ready to switch techniques as the crack shifts in width.

Local climbers appreciate L’hiver des Indiens for its straightforward grade and approachable single-pitch format, making it a perfect test for those seeking to refine trad crack skills in a scenic, accessible setting. Remember to double-check placements on the exposed exit and use your rack to cover the varied crack sizes efficiently. After the climb, take time to absorb the Laurentian calm that surrounds this route—quiet enough to reset your climbing mindset for the next challenge.

Climber Safety

The slightly exposed exit requires careful foot and hand placements—avoid rushing these moves to prevent slips. While glue-in bolts offer some security, the crack protection section demands solid gear placements and good judgment. Watch for rock freshness near the offwidth area and double-check all anchors before committing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length65 feet

Local Tips

Bring cams or big bros sized around 15-30cm to protect the offwidth properly.

Approach from Lac Gervais via well-maintained forest trails; expect about a 30-minute hike.

Climb during spring to early fall for the best dry rock conditions and comfortable temperatures.

Use shoes with solid friction, especially for the narrow crack section and the exposed exit.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, L’hiver des Indiens offers a solid moderate trad challenge that sits right at the cusp of beginner to intermediate crack climbing difficulty. The grade feels fairly true, though the offwidth invites extra effort and technique, elevating the physical demand. Compared to nearby routes in the Laurentians, it stands out for its unique combination of glue-in protection with crack-specific gear placements. Those comfortable with offwidth jams will find the grade manageable, but the exposed exit adds a psychological element.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by four glue-in bolts along with whatever gear you feel comfortable placing. For the offwidth crack, a small collection of cams or big bros between 15 and 30 centimeters is essential to confidently protect the over six-meter crack. The final exit section requires a few small nuts and cams if you clip the glue-ins at the offwidth. The belay anchors are glue-ins.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of L’hiver des Indiens and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

offwidth
crack climbing
single pitch
exposed finish
glue-in protection
Laurentians