"Leviathan challenges climbers with a demanding mix of thin cracks, corner systems, and technical face moves on Newfoundland’s windswept Southwest Coast. This epic nine-pitch route blends alpine exposure with precise trad climbing, rewarding those ready to confront its sustained technicality and coastal wilderness."
Leviathan on the rugged Southwest Coast of Newfoundland beckons climbers with a compelling blend of technical trad sequences and alpine exposure across nine demanding pitches. Stretching nearly 1300 feet, this route offers a demanding workout for those ready to engage with mixed crack systems, smooth face transitions, and varied corner climbing that steadily reveals the raw edge of Canada’s South Coast terrain. From the first slender crack verging on delicate footwork to the bolt-protected face moves, climbers find themselves constantly adapting—shifting from finger locks to underclings, then stepping into crack systems that demand gear savvy and steady focus.
The approach places you on sharp coastal cliffs where the Atlantic winds lend urgency to every move. Each pitch unfolds like a chapter: initial thin cracks edged with bolts lead to a clean, right-facing corner filled with cracks that invite careful hand jams. The route is both a physical and mental stimulant, offering a range of difficulties from solid 5.8 crack climbing to a final roofed exit pitch rated 5.12a, where powerful moves and precise footwork are rewarded.
Protection here calls for a full rack, particularly Camalots to #2, a #3 for wider placements, and a range of small cams, wires, and alien-style protection to cover the full spectrum of cracks. The bolt placements on steeper faces offer some security but expect to place high gear on exposed traverse sections and cracks that require experienced judgment. Gear runners and draws will help maintain rope management through the twisting corners and ledges.
The route’s location on the Southwest Coast Fiords means weather can turn swiftly—sunny mornings can quickly give way to coastal fog or wind gusts. It’s best to schedule climbs during late summer or early fall when conditions tend to stabilize. Early starts also minimize sun exposure on southeast-facing faces, minimizing the risk of overheating and dehydration during the sustained effort.
Self-sufficiency is essential on Leviathan. The descent is a mix of exposed fourth and easy fifth-class scrambling for around 200 feet, with clear anchor points using the top of the adjacent Screech route for rappelling if needed. This access adds a layer of comfort without undermining the seriousness of the climb.
Leviathan offers a bold introduction to Newfoundland’s alpine crags for climbers ready to push technical limits while embracing the wild coastal environment. It blends crack climbing, face sequences, and alpine traverses with a route quality and length that make it a standout. Prepare thoroughly, stay aware of changing coastal conditions, and this climb rewards with both adrenaline and breathtaking panoramas of one of Canada’s most striking climbing regions.
Watch for loose blocks especially near the ledges and avoid dislodging gear on traverses. The final alpine sections are exposed with limited protection, so maintain focus on solid placements and be prepared for variable seasonal weather including swift coastal winds.
Start early to avoid afternoon wind and potential fog rolling in from the coast.
Bring sturdy, sticky approach shoes for the rocky shoreline paths leading to the base.
Hydrate well before the climb; freshwater sources are scarce near the coastline.
Plan for a long descent with exposed scrambles; carry a lightweight helmet and rappel gear for safety.
Gear up with two full sets of Camalots to #2, a #3 Camalot for wider placements, a set of Aliens or TCUs, and wires including small brass nuts. Expect to use 8-10 runners and draws, alongside two 60-meter ropes for efficient multi-pitch transitions. Bolt placements provide some security on steeper face sections, but traditional pro remains essential on corners and cracks.
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