"L'Évasion challenges climbers with a demanding 50-foot technical pitch featuring a powerful boulder crux. Situated on Montagne du Tranchant in Lanaudiere, this route offers a sharp sport climb that pairs bold moves with clean protection."
L'Évasion stands as a striking single-pitch challenge carved into the rugged face of Montagne du Tranchant, within the Lanaudiere region of Quebec. This route demands more than just physical strength—it invites you into a compact theater of precise movements and technical finesse. Unlike sprawling multipitch adventures, this 50-foot climb compresses intensity into every bolt, requiring climbers to bring focus and controlled power from the moment they leave the ground. The granite wall crops out sharply here, its texture offering an honest mix of friction and sharp holds, while the exposure rewards every upward move with sweeping views of the surrounding forests and rocky ridges. If trad climbing isn't your preference, L'Évasion offers an accessible gateway—first sending the nearby Mercedes 5.11a, a demanding route in its own right, to reach the L'Évasion anchor. From this vantage, you can easily lower in to top rope or choose to pull the rope down and lead the climb directly.
The climb features a hard boulder problem nestled within its sequences, pushing the technical grade and testing power endurance at the crux—a move that feels distinctly challenging for the 5.11d rating. This pocket of difficulty makes the route memorable and rewarding, especially for those eyeing their first foray into high-level sport climbs in the region. Protection is straightforward with six well-placed bolts and a secure anchor at the top, allowing climbers to commit with confidence while managing gear efficiently. The route serves as the second pitch above an all-trad first pitch, though the two remain distinctly separate in style and demand.
Arriving in summer or early fall offers the best conditions—dry rock and moderate temperatures keep friction high and skin well preserved. Early morning climbs provide cooler air and shaded sections on the wall, while mid-afternoon sun highlights the granite’s varied texture. The approach, though not lengthy, winds through modest forest pathways and lightly overgrown slopes, rewarding climbers with a brief immersion in Quebec’s serene wilderness before stepping into the focus required on the face.
For those venturing to L'Évasion, a consistent approach to footwear with sticky rubber and a solid warm-up on lower grades are essential. Hydration is key, as the climb demands near-peak effort in short bursts. The rock’s grit will challenge your grip; finger strength and precise footwork will tip the scales toward success. Whether topping out on the bolts or rappelling from the anchor, the descent is straightforward but requires attention to rope management and belay setup to ensure a safe retreat.
In essence, L'Évasion offers a compact, punchy climb that provides the thrill of sport climbing paired with the natural grace of the Lanaudiere outdoors. It’s an inviting portal for climbers ready to step into upper intermediate grades with a taste of local character and practical beta to match the adventure.
Ensure your quickdraws and anchors are in good condition before climbing, as the six-bolt protection is straightforward but demands reliable placements. The first pitch below is all trad and can be quite different in style; don’t mix the two without proper preparation.
Climb Mercedes 5.11a first to access L'Évasion’s anchor easily.
Top roping is possible by lowering from the anchor, making it great for practicing the boulder moves.
Aim for morning ascents to enjoy cooler temperatures and shaded rock.
Use climbing shoes with sticky rubber to maximize friction on the granite surface.
Bring quickdraws for six bolts plus a standard rappel setup. This route is the second pitch, following an all-trad first pitch, so plan gear accordingly if combining the two.
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