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Les Chats Sauvages: A Dual-Pitch Trad Adventure in the Laurentians

Saint-Faustin–Lac-Carré, Canada
trad gear
multi-pitch
slab climbing
crack
bolt-protected
moderate crux
Laurentians
Length: 165 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Les Chats Sauvages
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Les Chats Sauvages offers a blend of slab, crack, and face climbing across two engaging pitches in the Laurentians. This trad route challenges climbers with delicate gear placements and a rewarding crux, all set against Quebec's serene mountain backdrop."

Les Chats Sauvages: A Dual-Pitch Trad Adventure in the Laurentians

Les Chats Sauvages offers a compelling two-pitch trad climb set just beyond Lac Gervais in the Laurentians, Quebec. Starting alongside the route Gervèze, the climb immediately invites a tactical mindset with its shared first moves. Early on, you'll reach the second bolt where clipping a shoulder-length sling is crucial before traversing left on a broad, sloping ledge toward the third bolt. This section rewards careful footwork and balance, transitioning into a straightforward slab that demands steady attention rather than brute force.

The climb's character shifts as you negotiate a short crack and flake section that, while composed of slightly looser rock, features secure bolt and gear placements to maintain confidence. Here, the rock’s texture and angle encourage precise hand and foot placements. Reaching a comfortable ledge offers a moment to reset before pushing straight up a short face toward a small block on the right. A recently added bolt protects a tricky move here, helping avoid a dangerous fall onto the ledge below.

From this point, the challenge intensifies. You’ll seek out natural weaknesses to place traditional protection as you approach a well-earned crux near the pitch’s end. The crux is a test of both technique and composure, requiring patience to link moves smoothly. Finishing this first pitch leads to anchors perched atop a 165-foot climb that rewards climbers with a satisfying mix of slab, crack, and face climbing.

For those eager to extend the adventure, the second pitch invites another 20 meters of climbing. Moving left from the anchors on a 5.5 rated traverse, you’ll negotiate a dirtier but still inviting crack system. The pitch culminates at a set of anchors, offering a solid finish. This variation adds a different texture to the climb—less polished, more raw—yet approachable with reliable protection options.

Les Chats Sauvages is firmly a trad climb—geared primarily for those comfortable placing medium-sized protection and utilizing a standard rack including cams and nuts. Six bolts mix with traditional gear placements, creating a balanced level of security without oversimplifying the challenge.

Accessing the route is straightforward from the Mur des 5.10 area near Lac Gervais. This region of the Laurentians provides not only quality climbing but also scenic forest trails and plentiful opportunities for spotting local wildlife. The environment around the climb holds a quiet energy, the nearby lake’s water rippling softly as if watching the ascent.

Climbers can expect variable conditions—rock quality shifts between solid slabs and chipped flakes, demanding awareness and care. Timing your climb for earlier in the day helps avoid afternoon warmth and potential sun exposure on the slabs, while also reducing the chance of slippery surfaces if rain falls overnight. Given the fragile rock sections, helmet use is recommended, and climbers should practice cautious gear placements, especially where the crack and flake sections show wear.

The descent involves a straightforward walk-off from the top anchors, making an efficient return after the final pitch. This ease in descent complements the climb’s appeal as a full but manageable day route.

Les Chats Sauvages strikes a satisfying balance between adventure and approachability—ideal for trad climbers looking to test skills on a varied face with a secure bolt ladder and natural protection. Whether tackling the first pitch solo or pushing on to the second, climbers will find enough challenge to stay engaged, paired with a peaceful setting away from busier crags. The climb’s compelling combination of slab, crack, and face movement ensures a rich experience grounded in the rugged outdoors of Quebec's Laurentians.

Climber Safety

Fragile rock in the crack/flake section can dislodge loose pieces—climbers should place protection cautiously and wear helmets to protect from falling debris. Weather can worsen grip on slabs, so avoid climbing after rain or during high humidity.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length165 feet

Local Tips

Clip a shoulder-length sling at the second bolt to reduce rope drag during the traverse.

Use a helmet due to fragile rock in the crack/flake section.

Start early to avoid heat and potential slick surfaces on slabs.

Take care on the dirty crack of the second pitch—clean up loose debris if possible.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Les Chats Sauvages presents a moderate challenge with some technical moves especially near the crux at the pitch’s end. The grade feels true to difficulty—it's not soft but accessible to climbers comfortable with multi-pitch trad routes around the 5.9 level. The inclusion of bolts softens risk without undermining the need for solid gear placements and careful movement.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack recommended with a focus on medium cams and nuts. Expect to place protection in both bolt-protected sections and natural crack systems. Six bolts anchor critical parts of the climb, complemented by solid gear placements in clean features.

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Tags

trad gear
multi-pitch
slab climbing
crack
bolt-protected
moderate crux
Laurentians