HomeClimbingLemonis Lament

Lemonis Lament: A Classic Trad Challenge at Turtle Rocks

Buena Vista, Colorado United States
crack climbing
anchored rappel
narrowing crack
Colorado trad
single pitch
moderate approach
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lemonis Lament
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Explore Lemonis Lament, a classic 5.9 trad route at Turtle Rocks that tests your crack climbing skills along an 80-foot wandering crack. With a blend of thoughtful gear placements and natural rests, this climb rewards patience and technique in a striking Colorado setting."

Lemonis Lament: A Classic Trad Challenge at Turtle Rocks

Lemonis Lament unfurls along Turtle Rocks in the heart of Buena Vista, Colorado, offering climbers an authentic taste of trad climbing that balances measured challenge with rewarding movement. This single-pitch, 80-foot route traces a wandering crack that begins boldly at 2 1/2 inches, gradually narrowing as you ascend toward the anchors requiring gear placement overhead. The rock here carries an honest texture—raw and waiting for your hands and feet to connect—inviting climbers to read each jam and smear with careful attention. The route has yet to be fully cleaned, meaning holding on the occasional loose debris or small vegetation is possible, but each effort to tidy the line reveals smoother friction and steadier placements.

Approaching the climb, the Boulder Creek’s hum fades behind pine-scented breezes brushing across sunlit quartzite faces. The crack demands respect but offers moments to ease your grip, with well-placed rests allowing both rookies and seasoned 5.9 leaders to find rhythm without burnout. Gear to 2 1/2 inches fits comfortably, though the narrowing crack challenges you to trust smaller nuts and cams, especially near the top. This invites a thoughtful approach to protection, where strategic placements safeguard the climb’s flow while enhancing your confidence in upward progress.

Turtle Rocks boasts a rugged feel, with scrub pines standing sentinel along trails leading to the base—sturdy shoes and ample water are smart bets to handle the 15-minute, moderate-grade approach with some brush and loose scree. Early spring and fall usher in the most comfortable climbing windows here; the morning light casts a warm glow on the wall facing southeast, warming the stone in brisk air. Descending after standing atop Lemonis Lament is straightforward, with a single rappel line conveniently set or an easy scramble down the rounded boulders below.

This route earns its modest two-star rating not because it lacks excitement, but due to its raw, less polished finish that rewards those who enjoy adventure through nuanced crack climbing and a touch of route maintenance. It's an experience to sharpen your crack technique amid the expansive Colorado backcountry, with standout views reminding you why a little effort pays big outdoor dividends. Whether you’re stepping up to hone your crack jamming or seeking a solid 5.9 outing in a less crowded spot, Lemonis Lament holds a subtle allure that fits neatly into any season’s climbing plans.

Practical tips: bring a full rack with a focus on cams in and around 1 to 2 1/2 inches, prepare for some cleaning or brushing on the way up, and expect a scenic approach that demands attention to footing on loose rock. Hydrate well and watch for shifting weather common in the high mountain zone. This climb doesn’t just test your hands—it challenges your route-finding and gear skills in one satisfying push to the summit.

Beyond the climb, Turtle Rocks offers rugged solitude just minutes from Buena Vista, where alpine meadows and clear skies set a fitting stage for this traditional adventure. Lemonis Lament invites you to read the rock, trust your placements, and savor the quiet thrill of an authentic crack climb carved by time.

Climber Safety

Incomplete cleaning means loose debris may present unexpected holds or slips—proceed with caution and consider brushing before committing to moves. Pay close attention to gear placements near the anchors to ensure secure top belays on natural gear rather than fixed hardware.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail includes some loose scree—wear sturdy footwear with good grip.

Plan your climb for morning hours to enjoy warming southeast sun on the wall.

Carry a brush or small tool to clean debris from the crack for better holds.

Watch weather closely; afternoon storms can roll in quickly at elevation.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels well-placed, matching the technical demands of sustained crack jams that narrow near the top. While not overly stiff, climbers find that effective footwork and gear confidence are key to maintaining rhythm. Compared to nearby routes in Turtle Rocks, this one has fewer polished finishes but rewards detailed crack technique.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack with cams up to 2 1/2 inches recommended. Bring plenty of smaller-sized protection to navigate the narrowing crack and secure reliable anchor placements above.

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Tags

crack climbing
anchored rappel
narrowing crack
Colorado trad
single pitch
moderate approach