"Leggo My Eggo packs a technical slab and crack climb into a single 70-foot pitch at Devil's Head. This straightforward trad route challenges steadiness and gear placement, offering multiple options through a tricky roof and an exposed upper slab with solid protection."
Leggo My Eggo is a sharp, focused trad climb that offers a brief but rewarding test of slab and crack skills in the rugged terrain of Devil's Head, Colorado. This 70-foot route begins with a slabby ascent, following a narrow crack that demands careful footwork and smooth hand jams. The initial moves lead toward a modest roof, inviting climbers to navigate a tricky transition. Here, you have two choices: escape right onto a run-out slab, requiring confidence and precision, or skirt further right to link up with the last three bolts of the neighboring route, Bacon is a Food Group. This option provides a more protected path for those less inclined toward the run-out challenge.
The upper slab is deceptively secure, offering adequate passive protection and recalling the era before Bacon is a Food Group established its bolts. This section calls for a calm, steady approach as the rock's angle eases, allowing climbers to piece together thin jams and delicate smears. The route concludes at a well-established anchor that serves both climbs, making for a safe and straightforward descent.
Located in the South Platte area near Denver, this climb sits within a landscape shaped by windswept high plains and scattered pine forests. The rock here is mostly smooth granite, inviting careful technical climbing rather than brute strength. Approach trails are relatively short but rugged, hinting at the solitude and natural rhythms of the Devil's Head region.
For those planning their day on Leggo My Eggo, pack a rack focused on smaller cams, from BD C4 0.3 to 2, complemented by nuts and optional RPs for additional security. The climb rewards precise gear placement and patience more than aggressive moves. The best times to climb are during spring and fall when temperatures are mild, and the granite offers excellent friction without the heat glare of summer sun.
Whether you’re sharpening your slab technique or seeking a clear single-pitch trad climb in a quiet Colorado setting, Leggo My Eggo delivers an approachable yet memorable outing. Keep a close eye on your footing and gear placements, and you’ll find yourself moving with quiet confidence across this slabby face. Descending via the shared anchor is a straightforward rappel, rounding out an adventure that balances mental focus, subtle movement, and the raw feel of natural rock.
Embrace the quiet challenge here: the rock asks for respect, the route encourages skill, and the landscape provides a grounding backdrop that reminds you why trad climbing captures the essence of outdoor adventure.
The upper slab section can become run-out if you avoid the bolts on the neighboring route. Ensure solid placements before committing, and double-check anchors at the top for a safe rappel. Weather can shift rapidly in this area, so be prepared for sudden wind exposure.
Plan to climb in spring or fall for optimal friction and moderate temperatures.
Use the bolts on 'Bacon is a Food Group' to avoid run-out sections if uncertain.
Carry a standard trad rack focusing on smaller cams for precise placements.
Approach early to avoid the afternoon winds typical in Devil's Head.
A single rack of BD C4 cams from #0.3 to #2, combined with nuts and optional RPs, covers the route well. Be ready for tricky placements on the slab and small cracks, especially near the roof section.
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