"Lefty carves a fresh, gritty line on the Piggy Bank Wall at Shelf Road, mixing lower-angle face moves with a demanding crack finish. This single-pitch sport climb offers a practical challenge for climbers who want to hone their crack skills in a classic Colorado sandstone setting."
Lefty rises from the Piggy Bank Wall with an unpolished edge, a fresh line that tests your crack skills amid a raw Colorado setting. This single-pitch sport route unfolds over 70 feet, beginning with manageable lower-angle climbing that invites you to find your rhythm before the wall tightens into a demanding crack. Here, your hands and feet both become active participants, pressing, sliding, and locking into the rock’s uneven folds. The initial section allows you to focus on precise clipping and body positioning, while the steepening crack challenges your ability to combine face holds with traditional crack techniques — an unusual but rewarding hybrid. Though still gathering grime and earth, Lefty’s line rewards persistence and finesse, requiring climbers to bring 8 to 10 quickdraws and steady crack-jamming skills. Surrounded by the rugged Shelf Road environment near Canon City, the route offers rugged views framed by red rock cliffs and an atmosphere charged with adventure. Expect to navigate low-angled stretches that coax your confidence before the route demands a full commitment to the crack, finishing with a satisfying pull into anchors that feel well placed but demand focused attention. This climb is ideal for those comfortable with 5.9 moves who want to sharpen crack techniques in an exposed yet forgiving setting. Plan your ascent during spring and fall for the most stable rock temperatures, and arrive early to avoid the midday sun that can quickly heat the face. Footwear with sticky rubber and form-fitting gloves for crack work will help you maximize grip and comfort. The approach begins from a short walk off the main road, on a trail that’s clear but uneven, requiring care with footing especially after rain. Lefty may be new and raw, but it channels the spirit of Shelf Road climbing — unrefined, technical, and packed with rewarding movement for those ready to engage every inch of rock.
The route remains quite dirty due to its newness, so watch for loose rock and brush off holds carefully before moves. The approach trail has uneven terrain; cautious hiking is advised especially during wet conditions.
Approach trail is short but rocky—wear sturdy hiking shoes and watch your footing on descent.
Best climbed in spring and fall to avoid overheating on the sun-exposed wall.
Use sticky rubber shoes and consider tape or gloves for crack protection.
Clip carefully in the lower-angle section where holds can feel sparse.
Bring 8 to 10 quickdraws to protect the route adequately, focusing on steady placements along the lower face section and into the crack finish. Crack jamming skills are essential for the upper moves, where hands and feet lock into tight edges.
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